Day 62
Saturday 3rd July
A day of some achievement. The excellent chandlery provided the right gear oil and it did not take long to drain out the old and refill the gearbox with the new. A box was found, more or less suitable for housing the chart plotter when brought inside. Steve had warned me of the possibility of excessive wear on the multi-pin plug from my constantly connecting and disconnecting it. So now it can be permanently connected. For good measure I varnished the box before screwing it to the bulkhead directly above the sink. There was an exchange library in the laundry where I found, hiding amongst sundry bodice-rippers and sci-fi works, Samuel Butler's “The Way of all Flesh”, which I settled down to read, whilst the wind howled and the boat rocked and creaked. The creaking, alarming in its way, comes from the mooring lines as they come under tension.
Roy came over for a chat as I was taking fuses out of an old switch panel. He is a professional classical musician. He knows Hull, since his father was for a time organist of Holy Trinity and music teacher at one of the grammar schools, Kingston High School. When he mentioned being a chorister at King's, Cambridge, I asked him if he had met my friend from school, Michael Boswell, who had taken a choral scholarship there at the same time as I did the same at Magdalen. He had. When his voice broke he came back to Hull and spent some years at Hull GS. So we reminisced about the East Riding Youth Orchestra and Choir. His mother still lives in Swanland, just to the west of Hull. Another interesting coincidence.
The weather will not let up. Tomorrow's forecast is dire, promising more gale-force wind and rain.
Day 63
Sunday 4th July
They were right. After a stormy night the loch is blanketed in grey fog. The wind has dropped from force 8 to force 5 with occasional nasty gusts. Patience is a great virtue, and it is needed now. Fortunately there is no time pressure on me to get to Oban, but the exploration of this lovely coast is being severely curtailed. The five-day forecast shows a possible window of opportunity to go north on Monday, but early, before the next trough comes through. Ardfern being a BT Openzone hotspot, one can escape boredom by surfing the net, and there is a serious book to read. After lunch came a tidy up and out came the Pledge. The saloon looks a lot more cared-for now. After tea Roy came along, and we went to the pub. As we chatted over a pint of “Tickety-boo” (whoever thought up that one?!) in came our French friends, and the pace of conversation slowed as the language changed. Another pint, and then back to the French yacht for a nightcap (Bowmore single malt). Hit t
he hay at gone 11pm. The wind is dropping.
Day 64
Monday 5th
Woke to a silent boat. The wind was now a gentle breeze. Was the opportunity there to get round the corner to Craobh Haven? At the mouth of Loch Craignish is a well-known tidal gate, Dorus Mor, where there can be severe overfalls, especially at spring tides. I reasoned that the force 3 south-westerly would not work up a bad wind-over-tide rough water, and if it did, I could spot it before committing myself, and come back to Ardfern. So we left at 07.40 and motored down the loch into the wind, which rose to force 4 at times, but the water was flat. At Dorus Mor the white w
ater could be seen from well off, but it was nothing like as bad as the chop one gets in the West Swin in a strong southwester, and with the tide pushing one through, it would only last a few minutes, unlike in the Thames Estuary, where you may have to endure it for hours. So, adding a few revs, we turned into the channel. A motor cruiser came the other way and showed no deviation from course, and no great splashing. The tide took hold and whisked us through at 8kt groundspeed. A heavy shower proved to be more of an inconvenience than the overfalls. The deck remained dry. Once past the islets of Reisa an t-Struith and Coiresa and clear of Dearg Sgeir Rock, course was set for Craobh Haven. Engine off. Reaching at 5kt on the genoa we soon arrived at the marina and tied up at 10.15.
This is a thoroughly modern marina created by building breakwaters between several little islands and reefs, very much like the harbour at Verdens Ende in Norway. The facilities are state-of-the-art. I wasted no time in getting showered and shaved. Contrary to information received, there appears to be no Wifi cover here. Tomorrow's forecast is very bad, so I shall be here for at least two nights. Spent the afternoon reading and sorting kit. The boat is quite presentable now, and I think I know where everything is.
Someone who clearly has no real interest in food, nor in my welfare, has suggested that this blog contains too many references to what I am eating. In my defence I can only say that all my life I have had a healthy interest in food as can be observed in my far from spindly frame. Those who find the culinary references not to their taste may skip over them in favour of whatever philosophy they may prefer.
Tonight it was black pudding from Islay with bacon and eggs, washed down with a mug of Yorkshire tea. So there.
Day 65
Tuesday 6th July
The weather is as bad as forecast. This morning was devoted to washing in the marina laundry, which is well organised and modern, though the dryers are rather expensive. Now all my kit is clean, if not quite dry. I have rigged up a drying line inside the saloon, since the Scottish Monsoon prevents any outside drying. The wind is southerly, about force 5, with heavy gusts from time to time. There has been very little movement here today. The little shop in the so-called village is not very well stocked and had no washing powder, so I used a tube of hand-wash gel, and it seemed to work.
The marina here was created from a rocky shore with some islands by an entrepreneurial group some years ago. There is now a well equipped marina with chandlery, workshop and sailmaker, a pub/restaurant, a shop, tea room and about thirty little terraced houses, built when, or since the marina was created. Shelter is very good, and the depth allows access at all times. The place is about 40 minutes by road from Oban. As might be expected, most of the houses are holiday lets or second, even third homes. Local young people cannot afford them. So in weather like this the place is deserted and dreary. What makes this place is its location right in the middle of possibly the best cruising area in Britain.
After a light lunch, the details of which I shall omit out of consideration for others, I did little jobs round the boat and sewed on yet another button. Tonight I plan to visit the “Lord of the Isles” pub and eat. I need cheering up. Tomorrow's forecast is not nice. In the shop I picked up a book about an American who sailed back to the USA in a leaky wooden boat. We have got as far as the Azores.
The rain came on very hard as I was thinking of going to eat, so I stayed in and cooked sausages with potatoes and broccoli. Later it stopped for a while, so I went over, and found they had Wifi, so the blog got updated and e-mails sent. The “Lord of the Isles” is pleasant, open plan, and the TV, whilst showing the dreaded World Cup, was muted. About twenty-five people were in the bar.
Finished the book. The boat sank!!
Saturday 3rd July
A day of some achievement. The excellent chandlery provided the right gear oil and it did not take long to drain out the old and refill the gearbox with the new. A box was found, more or less suitable for housing the chart plotter when brought inside. Steve had warned me of the possibility of excessive wear on the multi-pin plug from my constantly connecting and disconnecting it. So now it can be permanently connected. For good measure I varnished the box before screwing it to the bulkhead directly above the sink. There was an exchange library in the laundry where I found, hiding amongst sundry bodice-rippers and sci-fi works, Samuel Butler's “The Way of all Flesh”, which I settled down to read, whilst the wind howled and the boat rocked and creaked. The creaking, alarming in its way, comes from the mooring lines as they come under tension.
Roy came over for a chat as I was taking fuses out of an old switch panel. He is a professional classical musician. He knows Hull, since his father was for a time organist of Holy Trinity and music teacher at one of the grammar schools, Kingston High School. When he mentioned being a chorister at King's, Cambridge, I asked him if he had met my friend from school, Michael Boswell, who had taken a choral scholarship there at the same time as I did the same at Magdalen. He had. When his voice broke he came back to Hull and spent some years at Hull GS. So we reminisced about the East Riding Youth Orchestra and Choir. His mother still lives in Swanland, just to the west of Hull. Another interesting coincidence.
The weather will not let up. Tomorrow's forecast is dire, promising more gale-force wind and rain.
Day 63
Sunday 4th July
They were right. After a stormy night the loch is blanketed in grey fog. The wind has dropped from force 8 to force 5 with occasional nasty gusts. Patience is a great virtue, and it is needed now. Fortunately there is no time pressure on me to get to Oban, but the exploration of this lovely coast is being severely curtailed. The five-day forecast shows a possible window of opportunity to go north on Monday, but early, before the next trough comes through. Ardfern being a BT Openzone hotspot, one can escape boredom by surfing the net, and there is a serious book to read. After lunch came a tidy up and out came the Pledge. The saloon looks a lot more cared-for now. After tea Roy came along, and we went to the pub. As we chatted over a pint of “Tickety-boo” (whoever thought up that one?!) in came our French friends, and the pace of conversation slowed as the language changed. Another pint, and then back to the French yacht for a nightcap (Bowmore single malt). Hit t
he hay at gone 11pm. The wind is dropping.Day 64
Monday 5th
Woke to a silent boat. The wind was now a gentle breeze. Was the opportunity there to get round the corner to Craobh Haven? At the mouth of Loch Craignish is a well-known tidal gate, Dorus Mor, where there can be severe overfalls, especially at spring tides. I reasoned that the force 3 south-westerly would not work up a bad wind-over-tide rough water, and if it did, I could spot it before committing myself, and come back to Ardfern. So we left at 07.40 and motored down the loch into the wind, which rose to force 4 at times, but the water was flat. At Dorus Mor the white w
ater could be seen from well off, but it was nothing like as bad as the chop one gets in the West Swin in a strong southwester, and with the tide pushing one through, it would only last a few minutes, unlike in the Thames Estuary, where you may have to endure it for hours. So, adding a few revs, we turned into the channel. A motor cruiser came the other way and showed no deviation from course, and no great splashing. The tide took hold and whisked us through at 8kt groundspeed. A heavy shower proved to be more of an inconvenience than the overfalls. The deck remained dry. Once past the islets of Reisa an t-Struith and Coiresa and clear of Dearg Sgeir Rock, course was set for Craobh Haven. Engine off. Reaching at 5kt on the genoa we soon arrived at the marina and tied up at 10.15.This is a thoroughly modern marina created by building breakwaters between several little islands and reefs, very much like the harbour at Verdens Ende in Norway. The facilities are state-of-the-art. I wasted no time in getting showered and shaved. Contrary to information received, there appears to be no Wifi cover here. Tomorrow's forecast is very bad, so I shall be here for at least two nights. Spent the afternoon reading and sorting kit. The boat is quite presentable now, and I think I know where everything is.
Someone who clearly has no real interest in food, nor in my welfare, has suggested that this blog contains too many references to what I am eating. In my defence I can only say that all my life I have had a healthy interest in food as can be observed in my far from spindly frame. Those who find the culinary references not to their taste may skip over them in favour of whatever philosophy they may prefer.
Tonight it was black pudding from Islay with bacon and eggs, washed down with a mug of Yorkshire tea. So there.
Day 65
Tuesday 6th July
The weather is as bad as forecast. This morning was devoted to washing in the marina laundry, which is well organised and modern, though the dryers are rather expensive. Now all my kit is clean, if not quite dry. I have rigged up a drying line inside the saloon, since the Scottish Monsoon prevents any outside drying. The wind is southerly, about force 5, with heavy gusts from time to time. There has been very little movement here today. The little shop in the so-called village is not very well stocked and had no washing powder, so I used a tube of hand-wash gel, and it seemed to work.
The marina here was created from a rocky shore with some islands by an entrepreneurial group some years ago. There is now a well equipped marina with chandlery, workshop and sailmaker, a pub/restaurant, a shop, tea room and about thirty little terraced houses, built when, or since the marina was created. Shelter is very good, and the depth allows access at all times. The place is about 40 minutes by road from Oban. As might be expected, most of the houses are holiday lets or second, even third homes. Local young people cannot afford them. So in weather like this the place is deserted and dreary. What makes this place is its location right in the middle of possibly the best cruising area in Britain.
After a light lunch, the details of which I shall omit out of consideration for others, I did little jobs round the boat and sewed on yet another button. Tonight I plan to visit the “Lord of the Isles” pub and eat. I need cheering up. Tomorrow's forecast is not nice. In the shop I picked up a book about an American who sailed back to the USA in a leaky wooden boat. We have got as far as the Azores.
The rain came on very hard as I was thinking of going to eat, so I stayed in and cooked sausages with potatoes and broccoli. Later it stopped for a while, so I went over, and found they had Wifi, so the blog got updated and e-mails sent. The “Lord of the Isles” is pleasant, open plan, and the TV, whilst showing the dreaded World Cup, was muted. About twenty-five people were in the bar.
Finished the book. The boat sank!!
Day 66
Wednesday 7th July
The gale drags on. The marina is so sheltered there are no waves, but the wind can still rock the yachts, which it did, all night. This morning, taking advantage of a dry spell, I exchanged a gas bottle when when going to the wash-room, and then went to the shop for food items and the paper, obtaining a Jack London paperback at the same time. Soon after I came back to the boat the rain resumed, even heavier, and the wind increased. Probably the cold front coming through. Tomorrow's forecast is not much better. Now it's becoming critical, but as Oban is only 20nm away I can do it in four hours, and could leave here as late as lunchtime Friday and still be well in time to meet Birgit and Mogens from the train. I'm beginning to understand why the Scots drink so much whiskey! After lunch I filed and sanded down the top corner of the perspex sheet that replaces the top washboard in bad weather. It has been in constant use since leaving Ireland and it did not quite fit. This was of little importance until Craobh, where they gave me a berth facing north-east, so that the strong south-west wind began driving the rain in. Not any more. Later in the day a cold front came through and it cleared enough for me to leave at 17.00. Motoring down Loch Sh
una the sea remained quite flat, and at the tip of Luing the heavens opened yet again. Pepsand is one clean boat!! Progress downwind northwards up the Sound of Luing was rapid, and even some tidal eddies helped. In the narrows where the depth decreases significantly the adverse tide increased to about three knots, but not for long, and soon we were making very good headway. At this point, past the lighthouse on Fladda, the shelter from the islands was gone, and a sizeable swell came in. The boat surfed down the waves at top speed, registering a groundspeed of nearly 8kt. Very soon we entered the sound of Kerrera and by 21.00 were tied up alongside a training ship belonging to the Sea Cadets. 24nm in 4hrs dead. In the night it blew over 40kt, but I am used to the noises now, and slept nonetheless.
Day 67
Thursday 8th July
After breakfast took the free ferry to Oban and wandered around, enjoying the walk and the fact that it was not quite raining. Had lunch of fish and chips and returned to Pepsand to finally sort things for my guests. The Frenchmen who had been at Ardfern were now at the marina, and they invited me to lunch tomorrow, Friday. The skipper and owner of the boat (Ovni 36, aluminium hull) is a travel agent, and spends three months every year sailing, mostly to the north of France.
Back on Pepsand I read and prepared for what I hope will be Sunday's cruise to Corpach, at the start of the Caledonian Canal, some 25nm north from here. In the evening the French and I went to the little bar at the marina (in a tent, and not very warm) before retiring to Pepsand for a nightcap. The wind has now dropped completely. Silent boat, and a good night's sleep.
Day 68
Friday 9th July
Spent a quiet, rainy morning doing little preparations. Moved the boat from the fuel pontoon to a permanent berth, but not before filling up with diesel. Soon it was time to visit the French. The lunch was splendid: smoked salmon on a bed of salad with chopped tomatoes, then cassoulet (pork and beans). It was all delicious. My main aim now is to stay awake to catch the ferry to Oban to meet Birgit and Mogens.
I did, their train came in on time, and they are now esconced on Pepsand. They brought better weather. During lunch we noted the passing of the cold front. The wind went right round to the west, and a series of little squalls heralded a great brightening of the sky. By the time I took the ferry to Oban it had stopped raining and blue sky could be seen. There was some time to kill when they arrived, so we went into the Caledonian Hotel and took tea in a little room overlooking the bay. They had been travelling since 5a.m.. The ferry back was very full. We stopped in the moorings for a party to transfer to a large yacht. They transferred an impressive amount of food. Once on board I busied myself preparing them a meal, whilst Birgit unpacked. They will use the forecabin in the bows. Paul and I will sleep in the saloon. After tea they went down for a snooze whilst I downloaded the Skipper's Guide to the Caledonian Canal and had a read. Birgit and Mogens plan to fly back from Inverness in ten days' time, so no transfer problems, and we may be able to explore Mull after all before making for Fort William and the canal.
Day 69
Saturday 10th July
A quiet day with little wind. We spent a quiet morning on the boat. After lunch we took the ferry to Oban and had a big food shop at Tesco. Then Birgit and Mogens went looking for a camera shop to buy film whilst I waited for Paul at the station. The train was on time, but the fresh fish shop was not open, so we went back to Tesco for something for tea. We met up at the ferry and decided to eat at the bistro by the marina. The meal was excellent, we were treated by Paul. Well done, Bro!
A convivial evening on board followed, and we were late to bed. Still blowing a gale and raining, but we slept well, helped by a tot of Salvador. Thanks, Laura.
Day 70
Sunday 11th July
Woke to more howling in the rigging. The rain and wind are relentless. Clearly we are not going to Tobermory in a hurry. Breakfast over, we chatted and played dominoes, drank coffee and found ways to charge up mobiles from the 12v system, with complete success. Later we listened to a tape of the King's Singers. Not long after that finished there was a knock, and the French connection was re-established. Jean-Marc and Pierre-Luc were back. Yesterday they had left for Tobermory, but when the wind gusted over 40kt they decided to seek shelter at Dunstaffnage Marina, about five miles north of Oban. Now they had just arrived back here.
After lunch Paul, Mogen
s and I went to Tesco for a final shop before possibly leaving if the weather lets us. The time between the sailings just sufficed for our purpose. By the time we were back on Pepsand the sun was out and the wind had dropped considerably. By four we had paid for the berth and left. Water had been getting low, but at Oban Marina there is no mains water. They are dependent on spring water and collected rainwater. This year been exceptionally dry in Scotland, and they could not supply us. So with very little in the tanks we set off for Corpach and the canal.
Once we were clear of the fairway we set sail with one reef in the main and did well at first, but gradually the wind dropped so that we shook out the reef, but by the time we reached the Island of Shona we had to use the engine. Then tide, except for the Curran Narrows, was very slight, and there was virtually no sea, so Paul gallantly went down and prepared a splendid meal of baked fish with several vegetables. As we approached Fort William we could see the lower slopes of Ben Nevis, and even a stubborn patch of snow clinging to a steep cliff. The light was still good as we tied up to the waiting pontoon at 22.00. Straight to bed. We were all tired, especially Birgit, who went to bed long before we arrived. A noisy trawler disturbed the peace at midnight, but after that we enjoyed a most tranquil night.
Wednesday 7th July
The gale drags on. The marina is so sheltered there are no waves, but the wind can still rock the yachts, which it did, all night. This morning, taking advantage of a dry spell, I exchanged a gas bottle when when going to the wash-room, and then went to the shop for food items and the paper, obtaining a Jack London paperback at the same time. Soon after I came back to the boat the rain resumed, even heavier, and the wind increased. Probably the cold front coming through. Tomorrow's forecast is not much better. Now it's becoming critical, but as Oban is only 20nm away I can do it in four hours, and could leave here as late as lunchtime Friday and still be well in time to meet Birgit and Mogens from the train. I'm beginning to understand why the Scots drink so much whiskey! After lunch I filed and sanded down the top corner of the perspex sheet that replaces the top washboard in bad weather. It has been in constant use since leaving Ireland and it did not quite fit. This was of little importance until Craobh, where they gave me a berth facing north-east, so that the strong south-west wind began driving the rain in. Not any more. Later in the day a cold front came through and it cleared enough for me to leave at 17.00. Motoring down Loch Sh
una the sea remained quite flat, and at the tip of Luing the heavens opened yet again. Pepsand is one clean boat!! Progress downwind northwards up the Sound of Luing was rapid, and even some tidal eddies helped. In the narrows where the depth decreases significantly the adverse tide increased to about three knots, but not for long, and soon we were making very good headway. At this point, past the lighthouse on Fladda, the shelter from the islands was gone, and a sizeable swell came in. The boat surfed down the waves at top speed, registering a groundspeed of nearly 8kt. Very soon we entered the sound of Kerrera and by 21.00 were tied up alongside a training ship belonging to the Sea Cadets. 24nm in 4hrs dead. In the night it blew over 40kt, but I am used to the noises now, and slept nonetheless.Day 67
Thursday 8th July
After breakfast took the free ferry to Oban and wandered around, enjoying the walk and the fact that it was not quite raining. Had lunch of fish and chips and returned to Pepsand to finally sort things for my guests. The Frenchmen who had been at Ardfern were now at the marina, and they invited me to lunch tomorrow, Friday. The skipper and owner of the boat (Ovni 36, aluminium hull) is a travel agent, and spends three months every year sailing, mostly to the north of France.
Back on Pepsand I read and prepared for what I hope will be Sunday's cruise to Corpach, at the start of the Caledonian Canal, some 25nm north from here. In the evening the French and I went to the little bar at the marina (in a tent, and not very warm) before retiring to Pepsand for a nightcap. The wind has now dropped completely. Silent boat, and a good night's sleep.
Day 68
Friday 9th July
Spent a quiet, rainy morning doing little preparations. Moved the boat from the fuel pontoon to a permanent berth, but not before filling up with diesel. Soon it was time to visit the French. The lunch was splendid: smoked salmon on a bed of salad with chopped tomatoes, then cassoulet (pork and beans). It was all delicious. My main aim now is to stay awake to catch the ferry to Oban to meet Birgit and Mogens.
I did, their train came in on time, and they are now esconced on Pepsand. They brought better weather. During lunch we noted the passing of the cold front. The wind went right round to the west, and a series of little squalls heralded a great brightening of the sky. By the time I took the ferry to Oban it had stopped raining and blue sky could be seen. There was some time to kill when they arrived, so we went into the Caledonian Hotel and took tea in a little room overlooking the bay. They had been travelling since 5a.m.. The ferry back was very full. We stopped in the moorings for a party to transfer to a large yacht. They transferred an impressive amount of food. Once on board I busied myself preparing them a meal, whilst Birgit unpacked. They will use the forecabin in the bows. Paul and I will sleep in the saloon. After tea they went down for a snooze whilst I downloaded the Skipper's Guide to the Caledonian Canal and had a read. Birgit and Mogens plan to fly back from Inverness in ten days' time, so no transfer problems, and we may be able to explore Mull after all before making for Fort William and the canal.
Day 69
Saturday 10th July
A quiet day with little wind. We spent a quiet morning on the boat. After lunch we took the ferry to Oban and had a big food shop at Tesco. Then Birgit and Mogens went looking for a camera shop to buy film whilst I waited for Paul at the station. The train was on time, but the fresh fish shop was not open, so we went back to Tesco for something for tea. We met up at the ferry and decided to eat at the bistro by the marina. The meal was excellent, we were treated by Paul. Well done, Bro!
A convivial evening on board followed, and we were late to bed. Still blowing a gale and raining, but we slept well, helped by a tot of Salvador. Thanks, Laura.
Day 70
Sunday 11th July
Woke to more howling in the rigging. The rain and wind are relentless. Clearly we are not going to Tobermory in a hurry. Breakfast over, we chatted and played dominoes, drank coffee and found ways to charge up mobiles from the 12v system, with complete success. Later we listened to a tape of the King's Singers. Not long after that finished there was a knock, and the French connection was re-established. Jean-Marc and Pierre-Luc were back. Yesterday they had left for Tobermory, but when the wind gusted over 40kt they decided to seek shelter at Dunstaffnage Marina, about five miles north of Oban. Now they had just arrived back here.
After lunch Paul, Mogen
s and I went to Tesco for a final shop before possibly leaving if the weather lets us. The time between the sailings just sufficed for our purpose. By the time we were back on Pepsand the sun was out and the wind had dropped considerably. By four we had paid for the berth and left. Water had been getting low, but at Oban Marina there is no mains water. They are dependent on spring water and collected rainwater. This year been exceptionally dry in Scotland, and they could not supply us. So with very little in the tanks we set off for Corpach and the canal.Once we were clear of the fairway we set sail with one reef in the main and did well at first, but gradually the wind dropped so that we shook out the reef, but by the time we reached the Island of Shona we had to use the engine. Then tide, except for the Curran Narrows, was very slight, and there was virtually no sea, so Paul gallantly went down and prepared a splendid meal of baked fish with several vegetables. As we approached Fort William we could see the lower slopes of Ben Nevis, and even a stubborn patch of snow clinging to a steep cliff. The light was still good as we tied up to the waiting pontoon at 22.00. Straight to bed. We were all tired, especially Birgit, who went to bed long before we arrived. A noisy trawler disturbed the peace at midnight, but after that we enjoyed a most tranquil night.
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