Down the East Coast

Day 80
21st July
Early start. At shortly after 06.00 we crept out of Boddam and turned south, benefiting from the southerly tide and strong north wind. The conditions favoured a long passage to Eyemouth, some 95 miles and almost due south. Other harbours were either drying and therefore enterable only at or near high water, or unsuitable for yachts, like Aberdeen, Montrose and Dundee. The rain,which had begun during the night, was steady. Visibility was moderate at best, poor at times. But the wind was strong, f5, even f6 at times, and from behind. Motor sailing on genoa we made good speed, the boat speed hardly dropping below 6kt all day. The coast was soon lost to view, and we saw no other vessels until we were approaching the Firth of Forth. Just after 13.00 we were visited by a pod of common dolphin, which stayed with us for about 5 minutes. The rain had stopped, and the visibility gradually improved until we could see the coast from about Stonehaven to Fife Ness. The brighter weather approached from the north-west, but towards evening the gloom descended and we donned the oilies again. Eyemouth was well signposted by the St. Abbs Head lighthouse, and soon we were entering the brightly lit harbour. The yacht pontoon was fully occupied several times over, and we ended up alongside a Belgian yacht, tying up at 22.45. In under 17 hours we had come 97.5 nautical miles. A good trip.
Cocoa, nightcap and bed.

Day 81
22nd July
During the night the wind had risen, bringing more rain, but we were oblivious. Waking late and rising later, we found our way to the showers, and after a skirmish with the system Paul managed to get a hot shower. I failed, but was consoled by a good shave. We then paid for our stay and went into town. The co-op satisfied our need for groceries, after which we had a coffee and scone in a little café before returning to the boat. The wind had dropped to about f4, so we set out for Lindisfarne. Exiting the harbour was bouncy, but the swell was well spaced and we were soon out in deeper, quieter water. Once out , we set the genoa and switched off the engine, enjoying a fast down-tide reach to Holy Island. A fellow C.O.A. Member had offered us the use of his mooring here. When we rang him he told us that his boat was already on the mooring and that he was coming up later with his daughter. We therefore agreed to meet for an evening meal on Pepsand. As we came in to the harbour the sun came out, giving a pleasant evening after another successful sailing day. The harbour here is very well protected from all wind directions, and we anchored in shallow water, expecting to ground over low water, which duly happened.
The shared meal did not take place. As Paul was about to prepare the food, Steve rang. They had been held up and would not make it. He suggested they came over later for a nightcap. So Paul made a fine chicken korma instead. As it became dark we made out the shadowy shape of a tender being rowed out to us. Steve and daughter arrived and we had a jolly old time over a dram or two before they left us at a very late hour. They were planning to go north to Bass Rock to see the gannets. In the morning they had gone.

Day 82
23rd July
We were firmly aground, as expected. The inflatable took us to the pier steps, where we discovered the water was too shallow even for the dinghy. Paul gallantly took off shoes and socks and pulled the now much more buoyant dinghy the last few metres to the steps. The village is bigger than I had expected and is very attractive. We found the post office, which was closed, but managed to buy postcards nevertheless, using the honesty box. The ruined abbey came next, and then we found our way reluctantly to the dinghy and rowed back to the boat, now afloat and swinging to the anchor. This promised to be a good day. The wind was light, the sea smooth, and there would be much sunshine as a ridge of high pressure established itself over northern Britain. The day went exactly to plan. We motorsailed past the Farne Islands, past the huge Bamburgh Castle, Alnmouth and Coquet Island. En route we passed areas where there were millions of jellyfish. It was a smooth passage to Blyth, where Laura met us at the marina and whisked Paul back to Frosterley. It has been a great fortnight. Thank you, Paul.

After they had gone I ate and then went to the Royal Northumberland Yacht Club. The clubhouse is in an old wooden lightship, last stationed at Calshot Spit. Bought in 1952, it has been incredibly well fitted out. The amenities are first class and the beer is cheap. The cosy bar was full, the atmosphere welcoming. Some visitors from Amble, who were rafted up alongside Pepsand, chatted with me until it was time for bed.


Day 83
24th July
The day began bright if not sunny, with a light southerly breeze. By now the diesel was running low, and as the club does not have a diesel pump I elected to go to Sunderland Marina thirteen miles south, on the way to Hartlepool. I telephoned and there was no problem. The marina was jammed full with boats because of the Sunderland Air Show. Approaching the harbour were motor boats and yachts of all shapes and sizes, anchoring offshore to see the display. Tanks full, and much moulah lighter, I came out and anchored in 8m. It was a good opportunity to have lunch. The show began quietly with helicopters from HMS Westminster which came out of the harbour five minutes before me. The Hawker Hunter was the star of the show for me, perhaps because of boyhood memories, Neville Duke, etc. By 14.30 the wind had increased and began to set up a chop. Time to leave. Hartlepool lay another fifteen miles south through a nasty wind-over-tide sea, but visibility remained excellent. Off South Shields it had been possible to see the Cheviots and the North Yorkshire Moors at the same time. As we came into Hartlepool Bay the wind abruptly veered to the south-west and the air was suddenly warm and smelling of land. As I came into the lock the gate shut behind me and in no time five motorboats and Pepsand were decanted into the enormous dock which forms Hartlepool Marina. Tying up at almost 18.00 I made a beeline for the office and showers. Feeling much better for being clean and shaved, I had a stroll round the waterfront. The bars and eateries were crowded. It was Saturday night after all. Much drinking, much shouting and much loud music. Not my scene. So back to Pepsand and supper.

Day 84
25th July
Waking early, I got up and made porridge for a change. The VHF traffic indicated that the lock was in action, so I joined the party. At sea by 07.00! The wind was very light, but Whitby is only 25 or so miles away, and we had all day to get there. High Water would be at 16.56 and you can enter and leave about four hours either side of high water. Once past the Teesport VTS area, the engine was switched off. The very light wind called for the cruising chute, and once deployed, it gave nearly three knots. By 14.00 the wind had died altogether, so the last few miles were covered under power and we came into a very busy and crowded Whitby to find that the bridge, long the bugbear of yachtsmen, was stuck, but thankfully in the open position. This simplifies access for the boating fraternity, but is causing problems for the traffic, and trade, I would imagine. A brand new amenities block has just opened, and provided an enjoyable shower. Reaching the Co-op just before closing time I collected milk, etc. and then went in search of fish and chips. Then back to Pepsand for a quiet evening. The laptop refuses to access the internet, and I don't know how to fix it. The next planned stop is Scarborough. Perhaps I can take it to a computer place there.

Day 85
26th July
Porridge again! I'm developing a taste for it. The tide will let me leave after 12.30, so there is plenty of time to try out the new laundry facility here. State-of-the-art washing machine and tumble dryer. All worked very well, and for £5 all my clothes are clean and dry. Early lunch and leave at 12.35. Very calm with virtually no wind. Nothing eventful to report. Scarborough harbour staff very helpful and friendly. Tied up at 16.30. Had shower, had tea, and lo and behold, the computer works the internet here. Perhaps it was the set-up at Hartlepool that was wrong. The weather is definitely more favourable, and although it rained briefly in the early evening, the winds seem set to help rather than hinder for the next few days.