Day 7112th July
A most interesting dream was shattered at 08.00 by a shout and knock from without. The friendly lock-keeper wished to know what our plans were. He said we could enter the sea lock presently. We went through at 09.00 and tied up in the first basin where I was able to pay for the licence. We were advised to join two other yachts in the first canal lock immediately, and go through Neptune's Staircase, a chain of seven locks, since the next chance would be in over four hours' time. So we did. By the time we were through all seven locks we felt happy with the system. At the top is the canal station of Banavie, where we happily filled up with water, tying up alongside the shower block. After a cold lunch Paul and I resealed a stanchion base to put paid to a small le
ak where rain had been penetrating the forepeak locker, then we pumped up two new fenders that I had snapped up half-price at Oban, and we all enjoyed the splendid showers: ample hot water, simple controls, and free to all canal users. By now the day was warmer than we had yet had in Scotland, with little showers. We just chilled out. No time pressure to get to Inverness.
Day 72
13th July
No rain, no wind! We made an early start and had breakfasted by 08.30. Then Birgit and Mogens walked back to Corpach along the road to do a little shopping whilst Paul and I lifted the floorboards and cleaned the bilge. Whilst Paul was busy inside I washed down the decks and cockpit and spliced some better rope
onto a couple of fenders. We finished and had just settled down to a cup of coffee when the wanderers returned with almost everything on our wish list. It was about 11.00 when we set off 
up the canal, passing through the locks at Gairlochy, where we tied up for lunch. Some two hours later we entered Loch Lochy and were amazed to see the depth sounder go right down past 100m. The weather was sultry with a gentle breeze from the north-east, but the loch produced no waves at all and at 1200rpm we managed 4kt. The mountains here come right down to the water's edge. Ben Nevis, with its patches of snow, receded. Surprisingly few boats came the other way, and at about 15.45 we tied up on the waiting pontoon outside Laggan Locks. This is a dou
ble lock, but the first seems to be permanently open. We had a cup of tea whilst waiting for the southbound flotilla to exit, and then we went in. The lift was only two metres this time and soon we came out and tied up on the pontoon at 16.15. The weather looks as if it will rain before long. On the opposite bank is a converted barge which is a pub. No doubt we will investigate before long.
And we did, but not before Paul served up a superb meal of pasta with a tomato based sauce and added tuna. The pub merited our attention. Down below in the barge was the cosiest of bars, very tastefully fitted out, and serving excellent Orcadian ales amongst other good things. We hit the sack at about 23.00. Before tea we had wound the boat so that it faced north. During the night the wind did indeed turn northerly. The inevitable rain therefore did not drive in.
ak where rain had been penetrating the forepeak locker, then we pumped up two new fenders that I had snapped up half-price at Oban, and we all enjoyed the splendid showers: ample hot water, simple controls, and free to all canal users. By now the day was warmer than we had yet had in Scotland, with little showers. We just chilled out. No time pressure to get to Inverness.Day 72
13th July
No rain, no wind! We made an early start and had breakfasted by 08.30. Then Birgit and Mogens walked back to Corpach along the road to do a little shopping whilst Paul and I lifted the floorboards and cleaned the bilge. Whilst Paul was busy inside I washed down the decks and cockpit and spliced some better rope
onto a couple of fenders. We finished and had just settled down to a cup of coffee when the wanderers returned with almost everything on our wish list. It was about 11.00 when we set off 
up the canal, passing through the locks at Gairlochy, where we tied up for lunch. Some two hours later we entered Loch Lochy and were amazed to see the depth sounder go right down past 100m. The weather was sultry with a gentle breeze from the north-east, but the loch produced no waves at all and at 1200rpm we managed 4kt. The mountains here come right down to the water's edge. Ben Nevis, with its patches of snow, receded. Surprisingly few boats came the other way, and at about 15.45 we tied up on the waiting pontoon outside Laggan Locks. This is a dou
ble lock, but the first seems to be permanently open. We had a cup of tea whilst waiting for the southbound flotilla to exit, and then we went in. The lift was only two metres this time and soon we came out and tied up on the pontoon at 16.15. The weather looks as if it will rain before long. On the opposite bank is a converted barge which is a pub. No doubt we will investigate before long.And we did, but not before Paul served up a superb meal of pasta with a tomato based sauce and added tuna. The pub merited our attention. Down below in the barge was the cosiest of bars, very tastefully fitted out, and serving excellent Orcadian ales amongst other good things. We hit the sack at about 23.00. Before tea we had wound the boat so that it faced north. During the night the wind did indeed turn northerly. The inevitable rain therefore did not drive in.
Day 73
14th July
We woke to the familiar sound of pouring rain. After a late breakfast we decided to push on. Paul and I braved the elements whilst Birgit and Mogens stayed dry and plied us with coffee. There was not far to go to Fort Augustus. The nine-mile trip involved two swing bridges, one at each end of Loch Oich, which were expertly opened at exactly the right time for us, and locks at Cullochy and Kytra. As Loch Oich is the high point of the canal, we were now coming down in the locks, which is a much gentler experience than going up, since the swirling water is escaping away from, and not into the confines of the lock. As we approached Fort Augustus and its five locks we decided to moor up above the locks and to descend them tomorrow. By now Paul and I were somewhat chilled, and hot mushroom soup did us well for lunch. We both donned vests, however. In the afternoon Birgit and Mogens went out and walked into town whilst I updated the log and blog, and Paul slept. After another fine meal by Paul, he and I went into the Lock Inn and chilled out over a pint of local ale. Then to bed.
14th July
We woke to the familiar sound of pouring rain. After a late breakfast we decided to push on. Paul and I braved the elements whilst Birgit and Mogens stayed dry and plied us with coffee. There was not far to go to Fort Augustus. The nine-mile trip involved two swing bridges, one at each end of Loch Oich, which were expertly opened at exactly the right time for us, and locks at Cullochy and Kytra. As Loch Oich is the high point of the canal, we were now coming down in the locks, which is a much gentler experience than going up, since the swirling water is escaping away from, and not into the confines of the lock. As we approached Fort Augustus and its five locks we decided to moor up above the locks and to descend them tomorrow. By now Paul and I were somewhat chilled, and hot mushroom soup did us well for lunch. We both donned vests, however. In the afternoon Birgit and Mogens went out and walked into town whilst I updated the log and blog, and Paul slept. After another fine meal by Paul, he and I went into the Lock Inn and chilled out over a pint of local ale. Then to bed.
Day 74
15th July
Raining again!! We refused the offer of locking through at 08.30 and settled for “about ten o'clock”. Birgit and Mogens went for supplies whilst Paul and I washed up and did little tasks. The weather forecast was dispiriting. There is an apparently endless string of depressions lining up to pass over Scotland. Finally at nearly eleven we entered the chain of five locks and went down to the swing bridge, There
were spectators, mainly foreign tourists. By 12.00 we were through and into Loch Ness, apparently the only vessel for miles. The light rain continued until about 14.00. Paul knocked up a very tasty salmon salad which we consumed whilst under way. The wind from the south-west began to pick up and soon we had the engine off and sailed on the genoa. Urquart Castle looked interesting but covered in tourists, since the pleasure boats stopped there. As we passed we heard a piper strike up: another reason to continue sailing. Shortly after 17.00 we came to the lock and bridge at Dochgarroch. Here we had to wait for another yacht to catch up, but soon we came through and, passing the dreary-looking Caley Marina we tied up before the bridge at Tomnahurich.
By now the sun was out, so towels were hung out to dry. Paul prepared a fine dinner of Spanish omelette and I made a bread and butter pudding. Great stuff!
15th July
Raining again!! We refused the offer of locking through at 08.30 and settled for “about ten o'clock”. Birgit and Mogens went for supplies whilst Paul and I washed up and did little tasks. The weather forecast was dispiriting. There is an apparently endless string of depressions lining up to pass over Scotland. Finally at nearly eleven we entered the chain of five locks and went down to the swing bridge, There
were spectators, mainly foreign tourists. By 12.00 we were through and into Loch Ness, apparently the only vessel for miles. The light rain continued until about 14.00. Paul knocked up a very tasty salmon salad which we consumed whilst under way. The wind from the south-west began to pick up and soon we had the engine off and sailed on the genoa. Urquart Castle looked interesting but covered in tourists, since the pleasure boats stopped there. As we passed we heard a piper strike up: another reason to continue sailing. Shortly after 17.00 we came to the lock and bridge at Dochgarroch. Here we had to wait for another yacht to catch up, but soon we came through and, passing the dreary-looking Caley Marina we tied up before the bridge at Tomnahurich.By now the sun was out, so towels were hung out to dry. Paul prepared a fine dinner of Spanish omelette and I made a bread and butter pudding. Great stuff!
Day 75
16th July
There were no facilities at Tomnahurich Bridge, so we were pleased to go through to the locks and Seaport Marina. A delightful young lady came out of her warm dry office into the monsoon to unlock the electric point for us. Eventually the rain stopped and we got up courage to walk down to Inverness, about half a mile away. Here we enjoyed the covered market, a kind of Victorian arcade, and had coffee before finding the tourist information office. They were well organised and before long we were able to book a car for the next day. The weather slowly improved,a and on the way back to the boat we stopped at a pub on the west bank of the River Ness and noted the menu.
Paul prepared a meal of chicken breasts in white wine. We looked forward to a Highland tour.
16th July
There were no facilities at Tomnahurich Bridge, so we were pleased to go through to the locks and Seaport Marina. A delightful young lady came out of her warm dry office into the monsoon to unlock the electric point for us. Eventually the rain stopped and we got up courage to walk down to Inverness, about half a mile away. Here we enjoyed the covered market, a kind of Victorian arcade, and had coffee before finding the tourist information office. They were well organised and before long we were able to book a car for the next day. The weather slowly improved,a and on the way back to the boat we stopped at a pub on the west bank of the River Ness and noted the menu.
Paul prepared a meal of chicken breasts in white wine. We looked forward to a Highland tour.
Day 76
17th July
No rain! After breakfast I walked down to the car hire office and brought back the car, a Vauxhall Vectra. In unaccustomed sunshine we drove east past the airport to Nairn and were able to look out across the Moray Firth towards the Black
Isle. The marina at Nairn is sheltered , but only accessible around high water, so we decided against coming there. Our next stop was at Grantown on Spey, a fine market town, not unlike Moreton in the Marsh, with a long straight, wide main street and parking in parallel behind green islands. Here we found a super little bakery cum coffee shop and stopped a while. Mogens enjoyed a Scots Pie whilst we had scones. Aiming for Aviemore we came to Boat of Garten, which was hosting a steam rally at the Speyside railway station. Here we saw signs for the RSPB Osprey centre at Loch Garten. This was a must. We were in luck. At the viewing centre we were able to see an adult bird sitting a few metres from the nest, in which were three fledglings. The CCTV was superb. Eventually we tore ourselves away and returned to the pub by the station for a sandwich lunch of some quality.
Aviemore is crowded, full of mountaineering and ski schools and sho
ps. We did not stop, but drove up the mountain road to the funicular railway. This took us to the top of the ski slopes. There is a shop, restaurant, exhibition and viewing gallery. The exhibition is excellent. Outside at over 1100m it was icy cold and blowing a gale, so we fled to the restaurant and had a cup of tea whilst enjoying the panorama. It was even possible to see the Moray Firth to the north.Returning to the car we drove down the mountain and then north-west over a pass into Strathnairn and eventually to the end of Loch Ness at Dores, then back to the pub in Inverness, The Waterfront, for a fine meal, before returning to Pepsand.
http://www.rnli.org.uk
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