Up the coast to Ardglass

Day 43
14th June
07.45 is a good time to wake up. After a healthy breakfast of porridge I went shopping in Malahide. The internet café does not open till 10.00, so Starbucks had the honour. The e-mails and blog were soon updated and before long I was back on the boat. Least depth in the channel and at the bar was 1.8m. The northerly wind soon rose to f4 and so motoring it had to be, but not for long, as I had in mind to go into Loughshinny and anchor. Winds are scheduled to fall very light in the night. However, once there it became apparent that the anchorage, though sheltered, was severely compromised by pot markers and very shallow. Not worth the risk. So on past the Skerries to Balbriggan, a little fishing harbour some twenty miles north of Malahide. Coming close, I could see the masts of a fair sized ketch lying behind the wall, and , on entering is was clear that the best place was alongside her. “ Ulysses” is about 45ft, a long-keeled wooden boat flying the Stars and Stripes. Out of Jackson Mississippi, she is crewed by several tall bearded young Americans who made me very welcome, taking my lines and helping to tie up. The promised sunshine now burst forth. It was very warm all of a sudden. Time for shorts and a cup of tea. About an hour after arriving Pepsand took the ground without fuss, and upright.

Day 44
15th June
Woke at 09.45!! Must have needed a long sleep. Had breakfast, did jobs and watched as a fishing boat came in, using the deep channel through the middle to get to his berth. It was followed by a group of seals, clearly used to scraps. Before long Pepsand began to stir, and as soon as she floated I made ready to sail. The American crew all came up to say goodbye, as did New Zealander Matthew from his boat. Once out of the harbour and tidied up it was clear to me that a sea breeze had set in, so both sails were deployed and a very acceptable 4kt was achieved. The sea was slight, with no swell, visibility was excellent. Little of interest happened through the day until the entrance to Carlingford Lough. The cruising notes are very clear about the narrows here. You cannot enter against the tide, which can reach over 6kt. Unless conditions are very quiet, you only enter at slack water. Well, I was ahead of the tide and slack water was over an hour away, but the sea was flat, and although a tide rip was apparent as you approached, it seemed safe to have a go. If it was not possible, all you had to do was anchor in a quiet spot and wait for an hour or so. As we came into the buoyed channel our groundspeed gradually slowed to 2kt, though we were doing 6kt through the water at 2000rpm. This was maintained until we came abreast of Haulbowline lighthouse, when our groundspeed rose by a knot. As we came further into the lough the speed gradually improved, though at no time was there less than a knot of tide against us. And the weather was perfect. What it must be like in rough conditions I would not like to experience. The bright sun made spotting Carlingford Marina difficult until we were almost at the Nr. 18 buoy, which is the recommended turning point. Earlier in the day, before leaving Balbriggan, I had spoken to the marina, who had said, “Just find a vacant berth and see us in the morning.” There were plenty of vacant berths to choose from, and we tied up after 34nm at 20.15. Job done.

Day 45
16th June
Another good night. Up at 07.30 and after breakfast was relieved of 66 Euros by the berthing master for two nights. Another Countess 28, Lania, was on the next pontoon. It is not on the COA list, so I posted them the leaflet. Carlingford Lough is a delight scenically, with the Mourne Mountains on the north side and some pretty craggy stuff to the south. Granite. The marina is not so pretty. The location and the pontoons are very good, but the amenities are limited and somewhat scruffy. However, the water and electrics work, and Carlingford village is only a ten-minute walk. It is well worth the effort. Whilst the large drying harbour is less than enticing, the village itself is very good, with all the shops you could require. Boasting two castles and a ruined monastery, Carlingford is picturesque. There are many pubs and eateries, parking is free, and I imagine the place gets rather busy in the tourist season, which should be beginning. Stopping for a coffee in a charming tearoom cum delicatessen, I wrote postcards before sightseeing. Inevitably I made for the Yacht Club, a modern building by the harbour, but they were not at home. Several parties of excited primary schoolchildren were enjoying themselves on the water under the tuition of the local Outdoor Pursuits Centre. You could hear them from the marina! “Listen guys, listen guys!” came across clearly as the tutors attempted to instruct. Why do little girls scream?? Then back to the town to shop. By now the midday sun was rather fierce, and dark glasses and an ice cream completed things. Then back to the marina for a little rest and lunch. The afternoon was spent doing jobs and dozing. Spam fritters for tea. This marina is dead.

Day 46
17th June
Radio 4 long-wave reception is reasonable here, so breakfast of cereals with the Today team. Some serious passage planning through the morning and an early lunch. At 13.00 I left and sailed slowly up the lough doing between one and two knots in the gentlest of sea breezes as far as Warrenpoint, where there is a RoRo terminal and busy quay serving the coasters that come in daily. The town is unremarkable. The council pontoon is very useful. I tied up and went shopping. No possibility of obtaining Calor gas. No more Euros, and back to good old pounds. The intention had been to spend the night there, but a large crowd of noisy teenagers diving into the water off the pier, whilst not a threat, were reason enough to leave. I therefore sailed back down the lough and anchored off Carlingford in calm and sunny weather. Very peaceful. But suddenly the stillness was broken by shouts. Thinking that something was amiss, I went on deck only to be greeted by two swimmers who, thinking there was no-one on board, were holding the boarding ladder to have a breather. “It's OK, we're not pirates!”,grinned one, and soon they set off towards the harbour, splashing along in their wetsuits. This really is a lovely spot. Pity about the marina. Later in the evening the wind rose to a good force 5. As a precaution I set the GPS anchor drag alarm to 50m and noted transits either hand. A rocking, rolling night was in store. Nevertheless I did manage to get some sleep. Before going to bed I had worked out a plan of action to leave Carlingford at or near low water, when the tide rip would present less of a problem. Forecast is for more Nwf4/5 possibly 6!!

Day 47
18th June
Woke to find the boat in exactly the same position, so no dragging. Overcast and still breezy, but decided to go for it. Leaving at 09.00 I reasoned it would take an hour to get to the narrows where the current would be strongest. Slack water should be at about 10.20. Once in the channel, it was possible to sail on half genoa at 3kt, but getting considerable assistance from the tide. It worked out well. The race was gentle, though by no means steady, and we emerged from the buoyed channel into the calmest of seas. Once out of the lough, the wind dropped to a mere f3, and we could set the main and beat along the coast at about 4kt. In Dundrum Bay I saw a large dolphin or small whale not more than 200m off the starboard bow. Probably a minke. Sadly, it did not hang about. A mackerel succumbed to the lure, but otherwise the trip was uneventful. Yet there were more yachts about than has been the case so far. All going south and flying spinnakers. At 16.00 we were approaching Ardglass. Neither harbour nor marina answered my VHF calls, so I went in anyway. By now the skies had cleared and I entered the marina in bright , hot sunshine. Formalities were soon over and I hit the town. By happy coincidence a new supermarket had opened yesterday only a couple of hundred metres from the harbour, and Browne's hardware shop was able to supply me with a new Calor gas cylinder. To the south of the harbour entrance lies a golf course and scenic walking. Perhaps tomorrow I may take a look.

Day 48
19th June
Got up very late, and after breakfast and a shower and shave (the arrangements here are excellent) walked down to the South Harbour where the larger fishing vessels are lying. Here I found a post office and bought cards. The fishermen's cooperative runs a good chandlery here, and after buying a couple of small items I chatted with the salesman, who was most enthusiastic about the Caledonian Canal. He had once fetched a small fishing boat round from North Shields and gone through from north to south. The fishing here is still a viable industry, perhaps because the port is all-tide, all-weather.
Then on up the road to the golf course, which, whilst not in the same league as Wicklow, is very scenic with wide views out to sea and along the cliffs. It was possible to make out the Isle of Man through the haze. In the village is a very old tower, built towards the end of the 15th Century as a kind of fortified house. In the centre of Ardglass is another “castle”, with towers and battlements picked out in white. Clearly of far more modern build, it is now a nursing home. On down the hill, and here I remembered that the stocks of “Daddy's special lemonade” were getting low, and picked up a carton of Carlsberg from the off-licence. There are not as many pubs and bars in Ulster as in the Republic, perhaps because of the Presbyterian influence, but there are still more than one is used to.
Back at the marina I had lunch of dressed crab, bread and butter, washed up and rested. Later it occurred to me that the fresh breeze and sunshine would be good for drying, and so another wash was undertaken, the cockpit then being festooned with my personal bunting. No Wifi nor G3 connection here, but you can't have everything. It is odd going to bed in bright daylight at 10p.m., but we are a long way north-west of Kent with its Greenwich Meridian.