Points north: Glenarm, Ballycastle, Port Ellen

Day 55
26th July
After breakfast we showered and sorted ourselves for the trip to Glenarm. Before leaving we topped up with diesel. The weather was exactly as forecast, giving a SE3/4. At 11.00 we set off and as soon as we were out of the harbour we cut the engine and set the chute, then the main, getting an encouraging 5+kt. 45 minutes later a fog bank descended, reducing visibility to about 400m. The wind increased, so chute down, and over 4kt on the main. By now the tide was working in our favour. By 13.00 the fog cleared to bright sunshine. The ferries coming out of Lough Larne were not difficult to see, and they did not come nearer than a mile. The wind was now S4/5 but the sea remained slight. Lucy was not feeling too good, so it was just as well that we came into Glenarm and tied up at 15.20. This is a very good little harbour with first-rate pontoons and a very friendly and helpful berthing master.
The village is suffering economically. The harbour was built to serve the quarries, but now they are closed and nothing has taken their place. The council refurbished the harbour and established the little marina, and that is fine, but it is saddening to walk through the village with its boarded-up shops and pubs. Even the Post Office has gone. There is nowhere in the place that serves food, but there is one well-stocked general store. We shall therefore eat on board. Pork and leek sausages with all the trimmings.

Day 56
27th June
There was no point in leaving early today, and so we got up and breakfasted, then walked over to the castle entrance, a few hundred metres. Here we found to our disappointment that the gardens would not open before midday, too late for us. So back to the marina we went. At the office the harbourmaster, Billy McCauley, had just brought in his super model lifeboats. Pictures were taken.
Eventually we said goodbye to Billy, the Black Guillemots, and Glenarm at about 11.00. The wind was as yesterday, southerly and force three. As the tide was still foul we stayed inshore for a while, and after about an hour the breeze stabilized and we made progress, getting better as the tide began to change in our favour. The looming hills of the Mull of Kintyre grew closer and as we turned west towards Ballycastle we could clearly make out Islay, some 25nm to the north. Approaching Rathlin Island the tide was pushing us along at a fair speed. An approaching shower and squall led me to roll in the genoa and start the engine in order to outrun the wet. It worked. A ground speed which touched 10kt at times allowed us to round the headland and reach the quieter waters of Ballycastle Bay without being rained on. The harbourmaster answered his phone and allocated us a berth. In no time we were in. The harbour is slightly larger than Glenarm and is just as well appointed. There are no resident BG. The harbourmaster was in his office with his wife and three little daughters. We were made to feel very welcome. Formalities over, we had a late lunch of fish and chips. There is no Wifi, and G3 is so slow it cannot even load web pages. Perhaps later we can seek Wifi coverage in a pub. We tried, but no go.

Day 57
28th June
A warm morning. After breakfast we walked to the main part of the town about a half mile from the beach. Some shopping was achieved before we came back to the boat. We did not wish to leave before 12.15 because of the tide, so we went to the little café overlooking the marina and had a coffee and bacon bap. At 12.15 on the dot we left Ballycastle and headed north into the Sound. The wind promised a good ride, and immediately we could reach north on the genoa at 5kt. As ever, it did not last, and soon we had the main up as well, but could maintain 4kt without engine. This lasted only for another hour, after which the “iron topsail” came into play. There were some slight overfalls as we passed the tip of Rathlin Island, but as the day progressed the seas became smoother and we had no difficulty maintaining 5+kt. At times the tide was adding another 2kt. The visibility, which had been good when we set off gradually deteriorated as a front moved in, and by the time we were approaching Port Ellen it was down to under a mile, with drizzle starting. Even so, the trip took exactly five hours for nearly thirty miles. At Port Ellen we could motor straight into a berth facing to windward. Chicken stew for tea. Then Lucy washed up whilst I cogitated and wrote up the log. No Wifi and no G3, but there is a Cybercafe in the town. Later in the evening we went into the Ardview Inn and enjoyed the local ale and the company of one or two local characters.

Day 58
29th June
A dull start to the day, and cool. Some of the houses had smoke coming from their chimneys. A foray to the shops revealed a very good hardware shop in an old chapel. The weather began to improve, and it was decided to hire a car and drive round the island. Before long we were booling along towards the Kildalton Cross dating back to around 8ooAD. On the way back we stopped for coffee at the Ardbeg Distillery restaurant. The island roads are good, and of course the traffic is very light. Parking spaces are plentiful and free. On our way through the Oa we saw a pair of eagles, but they did not stay to be photographed, much to Lucy's chagrin. A short stop at the Machrie golf links was followed by a visit to Bowmore, the island capital. Youngsters were swimming round the pier head, but wetsuits were the preferred garb. Leaving Bowmore we pressed on to Port Charlotte where all the houses are identical in size and plan, having been built by a philanthropic clergyman. He must have been a wealthy vicar! Then on to Portnahaven and back. We stopped to visit the ancient burial place of the Clan Donald, and then to admire a small herd of Alpaca near Bruichladdich, and by Black Rock found the memorial to the crew of a Sunderland flying boat who crashed there in 1943. During the day the weather got better and better and by mid-afternoon you could see across to the Paps of Jura in the north. Coming back to Port Ellen we took the high road, which follows an almost straight course from Bridgend. Back in town we decided to go Indian, followed by a quick one in the Ardview Inn. Then back to Pepsand to do our homework!

Day 59
30th June
Strong easterly winds forecast, so sailing not an option along a rocky lee shore. It was still possible to keep the hire car for another day, so we did. Lucy had been studying Haswell-Smith's excellent guide to the Scottish Islands, and discovered interesting places for us to visit. First we went north to Port Askaig and were able to see the fearsome tide rip in the Sound of Jura. From there we went as far as the distillery at Bunnahabhain, from where we drove to the visitor centre at Finlaggan, the ancient administrative base of the Lords of the Isles. Then back south to Bridgend, where we bought sandwiches at the Spar shop, consuming them at a place overlooking Loch Indal. The RSPB reserve at Gruindal came next. Here we saw a hen harrier, a deer, several bored herons, swans, ducks various, then on to a very ancient stone cross by the ruined church at Kilnave. The wind had been increasing all day, and on the way back the surface of Loch Indal was extremely frothy. It was going to be a noisy, if safe night on the pontoon at Port Ellen.
And it was. A deep depression over the western Atlantic is sending a series of fronts across the UK. Winds here are from force 4 up to force 8 (full gale) for the next day or two, so although Lucy will no doubt be able to fly to Glasgow and on to Birmingham I will be staying here for some time. It will be an opportunity to do some serious cleaning around the boat and organise things for when the others arrive.

Day 60
1st July
With Pepsand rocking around by the pontoon and the wind humming in the rigging there was little point in getting up early, so we lay abed till gone nine. After breakfast I wrote up the log. When Lucy went for a shower she met Scott, the hire car man, and gave him the key back. He had been patiently waiting on the quay. But folk here are not in a great hurry. When the ferry docks, usually twice a day, the place livens up a bit for a while, then the tranquil pace reasserts itself. The ones rushing around are tourists like us. There are two French yachts here at present. On the road we met Dutch,and German cars, and in the pub were a couple from Finland.

http://www.rnli.org.uk/

Lucy arrives

Day 54
25th June
The morning was spent shopping for groceries and getting ready for Lucy. Her train from the airport came in at 13.20, and as soon as we came to the boat we lunched. The oil change was accomplished, and I checked the impeller for good measure. Later we walked over to the old harbour, now disused, and back into town where we enjoyed coffee and scones. They are preparing some kind of sea festival for the weekend. Ominous ranks of large black loudspeakers fill one with dread. Why the cult of electronically boosted volume? In their defence, the organisers have laid on a brass band as well. But we shall miss it all, leaving before it all begins. Our next port of call will be Glenarm, some 25 miles up the coast. The forecast is good, with a tail wind. By setting off at high water we will get a helpful tide all the way.

Donaghadee, Bangor, Rose and Black Guillemot

Day 52
23rd June
The best time to leave is at slack water, taking the start of the ebb down the narrows to the sea. The tide tables gave this as 11.30 today, so there was time to go round the town again and shop for groceries. Also took this photo of the futuristic lifeboat house at Portaferry.

Nearly ran out of coffee! That would be serious. At the butcher's bought liver and pork and leek sausages. The helpful berthing master came round at about ten, and was paid. We chatted for a while before he went off to tend his crab pots. At the appointed time the tide went slack, and we were off, heading into a fair breeze that augured well for later, when it would be possible to turn north and sail. Passing Seagen, I noticed a rib in attendance with a diver down. The Marine Biology Dept. of Belfast University are involved with the project. The current got progressively stronger as we neared the sea, and at the bar there was a nasty chop, but at 6kts over the ground we were through it rapidly and could set sail to the north. The breeze was very good at first, but it gradually fell away until it was necessary to use the engine off Portavogie. The sea became even smoother, and so we were able to maintain a water speed of 6kts with a helping tide raising our groundspeed to nearly 7kts. Some porpoises passed going the other way, but nothing else of interest happened. Donaghadee Harbour was very quiet, and I tied up at the quay near the lifeboat at 16.15.
In the town there were the usual boarded up premises and property for sale. With the emergency budget and the cuts to come I fear for this province. The nearest hotel to the harbour offers Wifi access, so I look forward to updating, etc., later tonight.

And so, fortified by liver and onions, I took self and computer to the hostelry, Pier 35, and updated whilst drinking a good pint of Bass. Back on board long lines were rigged fore and aft to allow for the 3m rise and fall of tide, and then I turned in. What is it about harbour walls that attract the drunken youth? My rest was rudely broken by loud screaming from the females and profanity from the males as a group of perhaps six young men and women, well in drink, approached along the pier. There ensued a game of "I'll do it if you do", which went on for an age until one and then several took the plunge. Having got it out of their system, and no doubt feeling the cold, they slowly departed, the high-pitched squeals of one young woman fading into the distance, to my relief. The wind had dropped to nothing, the boat lay quietly alongside, and slumber took over.

Day 53
24th June
Up and away. The long lines rigged last night worked well. Getting out was straightforward: the wind kept the boat straight in reverse as we backed off from the wall and out into the harbour mouth. Then round through the well buoyed Copeland Sound to Bangor. From the Sound it was possible to see the Isle of Man, the Rhinns of Galloway and the Mull of Kintyre. In under two hours we tied up in Bangor Marina. This is big, modern and well run, but not expensive. A nice change!
The shower was very welcome. Bangor seems prosperous and busy. In the marina is a tame seal, Rose by name, that will eat out of your hand, provided you are offering fish, and a colony of Black Guillemot which are habituated to people, and provide an amusing diversion with their bright red legs and white wing flashes. They look and behave like miniature penguins. The rest of the day was spent mooching round town and sorting out an oil change for the engine, which was due.

Strangford Lough

Day 49
20th June
After breakfast wrote cards and posted, did some food shopping, came back to marina and bought an Admiralty chart of Strangford Lough. Paid the kindly berthing master and did the passage plan for today. Strangford Lough narrows are every bit as bad as Carlingford, and you cannot enter against the tide. From information available in the almanac the best time to enter seemed to be just after the tide turned, about 3hours 30min before High Water Belfast. To arrive at the entrance for that time one would leave Ardglass not later than 14.30. so I busied myself with lunch and little tasks round the boat before leaving at 13.50. The wind as forecast was light northerly, but with increasing east in it so that after about an hour the engine came off and it was possible to beat steadily up the coast. Arriving at the entrance on time I put the engine on to give greater steering control in the turbulent tide. This was just as well , since the wind did a rapid volte face as we came into the swirliest bits. At times we did ten knots over the ground, so the whole experience did not last long. In no time we were in the great open spaces of the lough. The River Quoile seemed a good place to anchor, so we headed for Killyleagh and turned up the river, anchoring in about 5m at 16.50. It was now very warm and what little wind was from the north. Pork chops in barbecue sauce kept my attention for a while. No Wifi, no G3 coverage. The anchorage is quite picturesque, and once the motor-boaters retired for the night, very peaceful. This is what we come for.
Day 50
21st June
After a very quiet night left the anchorage at 10.15 and moved upriver as far as the Quoile YC moorings, then came back downriver and out into the lough. Here the wind picked up and it was possible to beat, then reach, then run north at about 3kt on genoa alone. The day gradually warmed up. There were few yachts out to enjoy the easy conditions. Here the shallows are marked by perches which are often difficult to spot at distance, so a sharp eye is required. The main yacht clubs are all on the west side of the lough, and when I had had enough sailing, I turned west and went in behind Conly Island and anchored at 14.00 in under two metres of water. The bottom here is mud. There was still over an hour to low water, but the boat did not touch. During the afternoon a buzzard circled overhead, a lone yacht came in and moored, but nothing really disturbed the peace. Murphy's Law!! Just as I typed that, a loud motor boat came along and began water-skiing practice not very far away. Fortunately, it did not last long. There ensued a good night.
Day 51
22nd June
Woke at 07.30 and breakfasted. Left the anchorage at 08.10 and sailed out past several islets and into the lough. The wind was light and flukey, but permitted sailing. When it steadied and strengthened it was from exactly the direction I needed least, so on with the “iron topsail” and direct to Portaferry. The berthing master was very helpful. It turns out that he is an RNLI crew member on the local inshore boat. Slightly larger than Ardglass, the town has more shops, but no G3 cover. In the tourist office two very charming ladies thought the hotel would give me internet access. They also pointed me to the Seagen Exhibition upstairs. This concerns a 1MW tidal power prototype that has been installed in the narrows here. No-one at home at the RNLI station. Bought bacon and milk, had a coffee and came back to boat.
Wrote up cruise log and then took laptop into town. The barber's was unoccupied, so I took the opportunity to have a trim. The barber thought the pub up the road would have Wifi access, and he was right. At the Fiddler's Arms I managed to clear the backlog of e-mails and update the blog. The Smethwick's Brown Ale is very good. Still no-one in at the RNLI. The tide was right out when I came back, and there was no current under the pontoon. When berthing, the current against us more than compensated for having a tailwind. Coming in here with wind and tide both from the south would be very fraught. The ferries have very powerful engines to cope with the tide, which can get up to more than 7kt at springs.

Up the coast to Ardglass

Day 43
14th June
07.45 is a good time to wake up. After a healthy breakfast of porridge I went shopping in Malahide. The internet café does not open till 10.00, so Starbucks had the honour. The e-mails and blog were soon updated and before long I was back on the boat. Least depth in the channel and at the bar was 1.8m. The northerly wind soon rose to f4 and so motoring it had to be, but not for long, as I had in mind to go into Loughshinny and anchor. Winds are scheduled to fall very light in the night. However, once there it became apparent that the anchorage, though sheltered, was severely compromised by pot markers and very shallow. Not worth the risk. So on past the Skerries to Balbriggan, a little fishing harbour some twenty miles north of Malahide. Coming close, I could see the masts of a fair sized ketch lying behind the wall, and , on entering is was clear that the best place was alongside her. “ Ulysses” is about 45ft, a long-keeled wooden boat flying the Stars and Stripes. Out of Jackson Mississippi, she is crewed by several tall bearded young Americans who made me very welcome, taking my lines and helping to tie up. The promised sunshine now burst forth. It was very warm all of a sudden. Time for shorts and a cup of tea. About an hour after arriving Pepsand took the ground without fuss, and upright.

Day 44
15th June
Woke at 09.45!! Must have needed a long sleep. Had breakfast, did jobs and watched as a fishing boat came in, using the deep channel through the middle to get to his berth. It was followed by a group of seals, clearly used to scraps. Before long Pepsand began to stir, and as soon as she floated I made ready to sail. The American crew all came up to say goodbye, as did New Zealander Matthew from his boat. Once out of the harbour and tidied up it was clear to me that a sea breeze had set in, so both sails were deployed and a very acceptable 4kt was achieved. The sea was slight, with no swell, visibility was excellent. Little of interest happened through the day until the entrance to Carlingford Lough. The cruising notes are very clear about the narrows here. You cannot enter against the tide, which can reach over 6kt. Unless conditions are very quiet, you only enter at slack water. Well, I was ahead of the tide and slack water was over an hour away, but the sea was flat, and although a tide rip was apparent as you approached, it seemed safe to have a go. If it was not possible, all you had to do was anchor in a quiet spot and wait for an hour or so. As we came into the buoyed channel our groundspeed gradually slowed to 2kt, though we were doing 6kt through the water at 2000rpm. This was maintained until we came abreast of Haulbowline lighthouse, when our groundspeed rose by a knot. As we came further into the lough the speed gradually improved, though at no time was there less than a knot of tide against us. And the weather was perfect. What it must be like in rough conditions I would not like to experience. The bright sun made spotting Carlingford Marina difficult until we were almost at the Nr. 18 buoy, which is the recommended turning point. Earlier in the day, before leaving Balbriggan, I had spoken to the marina, who had said, “Just find a vacant berth and see us in the morning.” There were plenty of vacant berths to choose from, and we tied up after 34nm at 20.15. Job done.

Day 45
16th June
Another good night. Up at 07.30 and after breakfast was relieved of 66 Euros by the berthing master for two nights. Another Countess 28, Lania, was on the next pontoon. It is not on the COA list, so I posted them the leaflet. Carlingford Lough is a delight scenically, with the Mourne Mountains on the north side and some pretty craggy stuff to the south. Granite. The marina is not so pretty. The location and the pontoons are very good, but the amenities are limited and somewhat scruffy. However, the water and electrics work, and Carlingford village is only a ten-minute walk. It is well worth the effort. Whilst the large drying harbour is less than enticing, the village itself is very good, with all the shops you could require. Boasting two castles and a ruined monastery, Carlingford is picturesque. There are many pubs and eateries, parking is free, and I imagine the place gets rather busy in the tourist season, which should be beginning. Stopping for a coffee in a charming tearoom cum delicatessen, I wrote postcards before sightseeing. Inevitably I made for the Yacht Club, a modern building by the harbour, but they were not at home. Several parties of excited primary schoolchildren were enjoying themselves on the water under the tuition of the local Outdoor Pursuits Centre. You could hear them from the marina! “Listen guys, listen guys!” came across clearly as the tutors attempted to instruct. Why do little girls scream?? Then back to the town to shop. By now the midday sun was rather fierce, and dark glasses and an ice cream completed things. Then back to the marina for a little rest and lunch. The afternoon was spent doing jobs and dozing. Spam fritters for tea. This marina is dead.

Day 46
17th June
Radio 4 long-wave reception is reasonable here, so breakfast of cereals with the Today team. Some serious passage planning through the morning and an early lunch. At 13.00 I left and sailed slowly up the lough doing between one and two knots in the gentlest of sea breezes as far as Warrenpoint, where there is a RoRo terminal and busy quay serving the coasters that come in daily. The town is unremarkable. The council pontoon is very useful. I tied up and went shopping. No possibility of obtaining Calor gas. No more Euros, and back to good old pounds. The intention had been to spend the night there, but a large crowd of noisy teenagers diving into the water off the pier, whilst not a threat, were reason enough to leave. I therefore sailed back down the lough and anchored off Carlingford in calm and sunny weather. Very peaceful. But suddenly the stillness was broken by shouts. Thinking that something was amiss, I went on deck only to be greeted by two swimmers who, thinking there was no-one on board, were holding the boarding ladder to have a breather. “It's OK, we're not pirates!”,grinned one, and soon they set off towards the harbour, splashing along in their wetsuits. This really is a lovely spot. Pity about the marina. Later in the evening the wind rose to a good force 5. As a precaution I set the GPS anchor drag alarm to 50m and noted transits either hand. A rocking, rolling night was in store. Nevertheless I did manage to get some sleep. Before going to bed I had worked out a plan of action to leave Carlingford at or near low water, when the tide rip would present less of a problem. Forecast is for more Nwf4/5 possibly 6!!

Day 47
18th June
Woke to find the boat in exactly the same position, so no dragging. Overcast and still breezy, but decided to go for it. Leaving at 09.00 I reasoned it would take an hour to get to the narrows where the current would be strongest. Slack water should be at about 10.20. Once in the channel, it was possible to sail on half genoa at 3kt, but getting considerable assistance from the tide. It worked out well. The race was gentle, though by no means steady, and we emerged from the buoyed channel into the calmest of seas. Once out of the lough, the wind dropped to a mere f3, and we could set the main and beat along the coast at about 4kt. In Dundrum Bay I saw a large dolphin or small whale not more than 200m off the starboard bow. Probably a minke. Sadly, it did not hang about. A mackerel succumbed to the lure, but otherwise the trip was uneventful. Yet there were more yachts about than has been the case so far. All going south and flying spinnakers. At 16.00 we were approaching Ardglass. Neither harbour nor marina answered my VHF calls, so I went in anyway. By now the skies had cleared and I entered the marina in bright , hot sunshine. Formalities were soon over and I hit the town. By happy coincidence a new supermarket had opened yesterday only a couple of hundred metres from the harbour, and Browne's hardware shop was able to supply me with a new Calor gas cylinder. To the south of the harbour entrance lies a golf course and scenic walking. Perhaps tomorrow I may take a look.

Day 48
19th June
Got up very late, and after breakfast and a shower and shave (the arrangements here are excellent) walked down to the South Harbour where the larger fishing vessels are lying. Here I found a post office and bought cards. The fishermen's cooperative runs a good chandlery here, and after buying a couple of small items I chatted with the salesman, who was most enthusiastic about the Caledonian Canal. He had once fetched a small fishing boat round from North Shields and gone through from north to south. The fishing here is still a viable industry, perhaps because the port is all-tide, all-weather.
Then on up the road to the golf course, which, whilst not in the same league as Wicklow, is very scenic with wide views out to sea and along the cliffs. It was possible to make out the Isle of Man through the haze. In the village is a very old tower, built towards the end of the 15th Century as a kind of fortified house. In the centre of Ardglass is another “castle”, with towers and battlements picked out in white. Clearly of far more modern build, it is now a nursing home. On down the hill, and here I remembered that the stocks of “Daddy's special lemonade” were getting low, and picked up a carton of Carlsberg from the off-licence. There are not as many pubs and bars in Ulster as in the Republic, perhaps because of the Presbyterian influence, but there are still more than one is used to.
Back at the marina I had lunch of dressed crab, bread and butter, washed up and rested. Later it occurred to me that the fresh breeze and sunshine would be good for drying, and so another wash was undertaken, the cockpit then being festooned with my personal bunting. No Wifi nor G3 connection here, but you can't have everything. It is odd going to bed in bright daylight at 10p.m., but we are a long way north-west of Kent with its Greenwich Meridian.

Goodbye Dublin, hello Malahide

Day 41
12th June
Spent a lazy day resting and preparing for tomorrow. The forecast is good for going back across the Irish Sea. Betty made us a tasty late lunch of stewed steak and potatoes followed by tropical tinned fruit. A bottle of red helped to liven the proceedings. In the clubhouse preparations were going on for a party. A large family was celebrating the return from Australia of one lady, and another was having a 40th birthday. At about 7 we went over and had a pint, having to endure the televised World Cup and England's inglorious start. The room gradually filled, and by about 9 we said our goodbyes to Dave Fleming, the courteous and helpful bar steward, and made our way back to the boats. A 9.00 start was agreed. The disco was surprisingly muted from our berths and we had a good night.
Day 42
13th June
The day dawned bright with a westerly wind, as forecast. After breakfast we said our goodbyes to one another and left. Geoff and Betty have been super company. I hope their return trip to Holyhead goes smoothly. At least the wind is in the right direction. We motored and motorsailed out of the Liffey, and at the fairway buoy I peeled off to port and headed north whilst Quadriga and crew tracked east towards Anglesey. It should take them about ten hours.
Going north was supposed to be easy, and so it was for about half an hour. Then the wind became very light and variable, but even so, a good tide was helping me along towards my initial destination, Rogerstown Inlet. But by 11.00 it was on the nose and rising to force 4. Then the coastguard came on the radio with a strong wind warning for all sections of the coast. Wind would get up to force 7 everywhere, with heavy, possibly thundery showers. Not the kind of weather to be finding an anchorage in a strange place. So Plan B was put into action and we scooted into Malahide and its modern marina where a lanky full-bearded Australian took my lines. Having tidied the boat I found the office and paid for one night, then walked into town. It is conveniently close to the marina and is about the size of Hornsea or Tenterden. All the eateries were open, and I had a coffee and a bun in one, and found a little Spar shop to buy bread. Not long after I returned to the boat it came on to rain. Very black and gloomy, but no fireworks. Time to write this log and chill out. The marina uses Spectrum for internet services, just like at Conyer, and as their tariffs are astronomical I will not be using them. There is a little internet café in town that I will try in the morning.

A Gaol, a garden and Dublin

Day 37
8th June
Went into town after breakfast and found an obliging internet café where I could update e-mails and blog. From there a pause for coffee and postcards. Next the museum. An interesting collection of memorabilia from Arklow and its seafaring past. Then Aldi, and back to Pepsand. It has stopped raining! The farmers certainly needed the rain, but it is good when it stops. When the tide turns we leave for Wicklow.
Left at 15.00. Almost as soon as deep water was reached the mist came down, reducing visibility to less than a mile. However, the tide kicked in with a vengeance as a groundspeed of over six knots was achieved. Gradually the low cloud lifted until after an hour as Mizen Head was passed, Wicklow Head was quite clear, about five miles to the north. The rest of the passage was without event, and I tied up in Wicklow just after six. The northerly wind persisted, but the East Pier gave adequate shelter. About an hour later contact was made with Geoff and Betty on Quadriga, and they came in not long after, having had to motor most of the way from Wales. We had a cuppa on Pepsand before walking into town, eventually partaking of chips at an American Diner. Then bed. Although there was some movement in the night we all slept well.
Day 38
9th June
Up at nine. Breakfast, then a trot into town with Geoff and Betty. From a nice coffee shop we walked round to the gaol, which has been turned into a tourist attraction. This provided and entertaining and interesting hour, after which we walked south out of town past the golf club and onto a cliff-top path which led back to the harbour. The golf course is somewhat spectacular. The remains of a Norman castle crown the little headland that shelters the harbour from the south-east. At the lifeboat station we saw the weather forecast. Northerlies for the time being. If it gets too lumpy by the pier we may have to move into the river for shelter. Back on board Quadriga, a Countess 33 cutter-rigged sloop, Betty provided us with lunch of tuna rolls and a welcome cup of tea. The sun came out. The rest of the afternoon was spent doing jobs, tidying and snoozing. Tourism can be tiring.
Geoff went into the Tourist Office and asked about somewhere to eat. The lady directed him to a particular pub. As we were leaving the boats to go there we were privileged to observe the RNLI crew conducting a sea survival and life raft handling exercise. The rib stood by whilst several crew, ladies included, leapt into the harbour from the pier. The resident engineer meanwhile played a hose on them, presumably to simulate heavy rain, or perhaps just to try to put them off. Leaving them to their training, we made our way down the quay and over the bridge to the pub, where we enjoyed a good feed in pleasant surroundings. It was nearly ten when we came back. In the meantime the wind had got up, and with I the sea. The boats were pitching and banging against the pier. Clearly we were not going to get any rest if we stayed there. Advice was taken from the RNLI crew still at the station, who agreed that we should abandon the pier and bring the boats into the river and tie up alongside what turned out to be a survey boat. So the three of us took Quadriga round, tied up, and then Geoff and I walked round to fetch Pepsand. As we came off the bridge onto the quayside road, a car drew up and one of the lady RNLI crew gave us a lift back to the pier. Talk about service! Geoff and I then brought Pepsand across and tied up alongside Quadriga. There ensued a peaceful night. Though we could hear the wind and surf, not a ripple disturbed the peace of the inner harbour, and we all three enjoyed a good night's sleep.

Day 39
10th June
Still blowing hard, so Dublin must wait. Up late, leisurely breakfast, eventual wander into town to coffee shop, where the waitress was one of the formation swimmers of last night. Over coffee we agreed to take the bus to Ashford, just a few miles away, and visit Mt. Usher Gardens, which had featured on Monty Don's BBC television programme recently. The bus dropped us a few yards from the gate. By this time it was nearly one o'clock, so we had a light lunch of soup and roll before going round. The gardens are informal and feature permanent plantings rather than formal beds. We saw many exotic plants and venerable trees. The garden lies astride the little River Varty, in which we saw tiny trout, and at one stage I was lucky enough to see a kingfisher. Finishing by the tea room we went in for tea and scones, though Betty was seduced by a fruit concoction that looked delicious.
The bus came on time, and soon we were back aboard. Geoff called me at about six to invite me over, and pointed out a seal that was swimming slowly by. I managed to grab my camera and get one shot before it dived. Later Betty provided a tasty supper on Quadriga. We decided to go for an early start to take advantage of the considerable tide on the flood going north. So early to bed. Another very good day.
Day 40
11th June
Woke before the alarm, had breakfast and readied the boat. Dipped the fuel tank as a precaution. Still five gallons, plus one jerrycan: more than enough to get to Dublin several times. As expected, the current was still gently flowing downriver, which enabled us to swing the boat on a stern line, greatly easing my departure at 06.30. Quadriga followed immediately, and it was a bright sunny and calm start to the day. Aeolus decreed otherwise, however, and less than an hour later we were punching into a force 5 northerly, right on the nose. In this situation all you can do is find a compromise between speed and comfort. At about 1800rpm the boat stays dry, but speed is lost. The following tide was a boost, but it also brought about the dreaded “wind over tide” situation and a nasty short chop which had the boat pitching about with speed fluctuating. But visibility was very good, and we had literally all day to get there, so no sweat. Had the wind been a few degrees further west or east and we could have sailed with more comfort, but it was not to be . The nearer we came to Dublin, the kinder became the conditions. The last part, coming into the river Liffey, was perfectly peaceful. Use of the mobile phone alerted the Poolbeg Marina, where we tied up and immediately refuelled both boats. The marina is in fact a club, and staffed by a rota of club members on a voluntary basis. The duty member could not have been more helpful, though he had some difficulty finding tokens for the showers. Eventually we were all three showered and feeling human again.
Soon we made our way into Dublin by means of the new tram system, which works very well indeed. Like all big cities in summer, Dublin was somewhat full of foreign tourists, and we joined the merry throng for a while, until the need for sustenance demanded to be dealt with. In a typical Irish ambience, not entirely improved by the screening of the opening World Cup match in South Africa, we made short work of a fine lunch of Irish bacon, cabbage and mash, washed down with a suitable beverage. Replete, we wandered down O'Connell Street to the river, crossed the bridge and went into the park-like campus of Trinity College, a quieter atmosphere than the hubbub of the traffic. It was not long before we found ourselves in Finn McCool's Café in the Tourist Information Centre, resting and enjoying a welcome cup of tea. At this point I think all three of us could have easily dozed off. Then back to the tram and the marina, and a rest.

http://www.rnli.org.uk/

On to Arklow

Day 35
6th June

Woke at 8. After breakfast walked to post office with cards and took a few pics, then back to boat. The weather is good for the trip to Arklow, some 50nm. By leaving late morning there would be help from the tide all the way, although it is only neaps. I left at 10.00. There was plenty of water at St. Patrick's Bridge, a shallow channel to the north of Little Saltee Island, and the wind was initially helpful. However, it gradually weakened until by Wexford I had rolled in the jib. Just after one o'clock the main flapped across as a sea breeze set in, giving good progress. A seal popped up behind us, then, curiosity satisfied, it disappeared again. Motor-sailing at 6kts we continued up the coast until at about 16.00 a light rain began, and the breeze died. The lull only lasted about half an hour, and the sea breeze came back, but weaker. By now the tide was adding well over a knot to our groundspeed as we sailed through the Rusk Channel and along past Courtown and Tara Hill. A German flagged gaff schooner passed, motorsailing the other way. After another little shower Arklow came into view, and we tied up in sunny, calm conditions at 18.15. I did as my friend in Wexford suggested and tied up at the RNLI pontoon. The number he gave me only produced an answer phone. Must make my peace with them tomorrow. Now for the rest of the chicken stir-fry!
Lovely stuff. The washing up was done, and I had settled down to write this up when a call from the pontoon brought me on deck. It was Brendan Dillon, the lifeboat 2nd coxswain. I began to make my apologies for tying up to his pontoon, but he was all smiles and made me most welcome. Living locally, he had seen Pepsand and came over to make sure all was in order. He then offered to show me round. I took a photo of him and his daughter Emer on the lifeboat. He ruefully showed me the damage that some intruders had recently inflicted on the boat with an axe in a vain attempt to obtain something of value. The rear door window panels, made of what looked like 8mm thick glass had been shattered, rendering the boat unfit for service, since it would not necessarily be able to self-right with water pouring through the door. By great good fortune, a similar boat is being refurbished at a boatyard not far away, and they were able to borrow a serviceable door from that boat for the time being, so the boat is fully serviceable again. Tomorrow is a bank holiday here, but I do not intend to move for a day or two. Brendan told me there is a maritime museum over by the marina, and that should be interesting. It is in, or beside a supermarket which I could easily access by dinghy. Since the lifeboat station is locked, I cannot get direct access to the town from the pontoon.
Well, I had just got my head down when there was a clatter of boots on the gangway down from the station, and it became clear that the crew were on a shout. A small boat broken down needed to be towed in. In very short order the seven crew were on the boat, engines started, mooring cast off, and away. Very slick. The lifeboat throbbed slowly out of the dock, but once in the river the acceleration was impressive. The twin MAN diesels could be heard for a very long time.

Day 36
7th June
Up not very early and cooking breakfast when Jimmy Tyrrell, the Hon. Secretary, came over to have a chat. An Irish Times photographer had come to take pictures of the vandalism. He told me the casualty last night was a small motor cruiser that had alternator problems. They were only five or six miles down the coast, and were brought in quickly. Last night's time elapsed from call out to leaving the pontoon had been five minutes. Not bad!
Later I walked into town. It is clear that Arklow has seen better days. Many empty business premises give the place a neglected and dispiriting air. Across the bridge is a new shopping centre and Aldi and also a modern housing development around the marina, but that accentuates the impression of poverty on the western side. The dock has many laid-up fishing vessels, adding to the gloom. However, there is a bandstand and two splendid town churches, one Catholic, one Anglican. 19th C Romanesque and Gothic respectively.
I wandered back to Pepsand and had lunch as it set in to rain for the afternoon. Of course, it is a bank holiday here! Then jobs. Lubricate the sea toilet pump; glue a wooden board that was threatening to come apart; enter some MMSI addresses on the VHF set. Then snooze; then tea. The weather outlook is not good for tomorrow, but there is a maritime museum and internet café to visit.
Wicklow, the next planned port of call, is only 15nm north of here, and with the strong tides here, it will not take long to get there, perhaps not much more than two hours.

http://www.rnli.org.uk

Over to Ireland

Day 32
3rd June
Woke early and rose at once. Water was lapping round the boat and it would soon lift. At 07.15 we floated. The anchor came up cleanly and we were off, gingerly skirting the other yachts in the anchorage and feeling our way across the shallows to the main channel. The wind was as forecast: light easterly. Threading our way between the moorings we soon found our way out to the open sea. Another yacht left ahead of us, but took a slightly more westerly heading than us. Presumably they were heading for Cork or the western Irish coast.
Within an hour the sails were set and engine switched off. The wind gradually rose to F5, and the genoa wes reefed a little as the boat romped along at over 6kt. During the day the wind went round more to south-east and fell to F3. Very little happened. Sea birds seen were many, including petrels.
At 21.30 the engine was started , not that it was needed for propulsion, but rather for battery charging, since the current drain with lights, chart plotter, autopilot and instruments would have severely depleted the service battery. With the engine on, the fridge could be run as well. Just after this, there was a splashing, and we were surrounded by dolphins. Too many to count, they were common dolphins, coming within inches of the hull and playing in the bow wave. They stayed for some minutes. I tried to get photos, but with little success. There was little else to relieve the boredom of the night. Half a dozen fishing vessels, a couple of freighters, all some distance away, and a very well illuminated ferry or cruise liner passed. Nothing within a mile. Eventually the dawn came, the night clouds evaporated and another hot sunny day began. Well before Kilmore I handed the main , and as I was sorting that out, George threw a wobbly. It was just a fuse, and it was soon replaced, but it brought home to me just how much a single-hander relies on the autopilot. The Saltee Islands came and were passed, and a salmon net was avoided at the very last minute, but eventually at 09.30 we tied up safely at Kilmore Quay. 138Nm in 26 hours. Quite a trip, even with favourable winds. It was worth waiting for the right day. Head down!!