Thursday, 20 May 2010

Fowey to Falmouth



Later, with adequate rise of tide we moved further upriver to a truly beautiful anchorage, Dandy Hole. Here we enjoyed a tranquil evening, even launching the dinghy and taking snaps of the boat as she lay at anchor, and went to bed very content.
Morning came and Steve beat me to it again. I think it is less thirst/hunger/bladder pressure, and more the need for nicotine that gets him out of bed. The morning was spectacular in its stillness. The river lay before us like a sheet of glass, broken only by the splashing of tiny fish and a myriad jellyfish gently brushing the surface as they swam by on the rising tide. And then a deer swam across and spent several minutes seeking a path up the steep bank to the south. After that, bacon, sausage and egg seemed mundane.

Replete and well rested, we left Dandy Hole at 09.10 and motored downriver and out into the Sound. We motorsailed with the main trying to help but not really giving any push until we cleared Rame Head and were able to open out on a westerly heading. The wind picked up, and for a while we were able to beat nearly parallel to the coast across Whitesand Bay. Visibility became very poor, but there were few vessels and hardly any crab pot markers to worry about. By St. George's Island we rolled in the genoa and motorsailed again past Polperro and on to Fowey. Here we used the short stay pontoon to go ashore, shop, and pay our dues. Once moored to the overnight pontoon we were able to relax and enjoy the weather as the sun came out and things warmed up.
After a rest we took the ferry to Fowey and went to the Fowey Gallants YC but they were not yet open. It seemed logical to eat and then try. In the Globe Restaurant we ate well and were soon back at the club. Eventually we worked out how the showers operated, and indulged. Coming into the bar we enquired after the visitors' book. It was in the lobby. We duly signed in, and were immediately greeted by, “What will you have?”. It turned out to be a very pleasant evening chatting with the few members present. Back to Pepsand on the ferry and bed.

Day 17
Wednesday 19th May
The first non-sailing day. Hardly any wind, hardly any visibility, but lots of light but fine, drenching rain. At least it wasn't cold. Up late, we sat around and read until 12.30. The Cornish pasties we had bought yesterday seemed huge, so we heated one up and shared it. In the afternoon the rain stopped and we took the ferry back to Fowey and visited the posher of the two clubs, the Royal Fowey YC, where I was able to shave. We wandered through the town, visited the museum and the aquarium. Perhaps there would be more things of interest across the river in Polruan. Apart from a busy little shipyard, two pubs and a teashop there was little to see. The coast path would have been good, but not in zero visibility. The tea shop was good. We enjoyed toasted crumpets and tea/coffee and took the ferry back. A small cargo vessel left the port sounding its foghorn, a mournful thing. For me the afternoon was enlivened by a pied wagtail which clearly made a good living scrounging on the quayside .It was tame enough for me to get a good photo.
The flora here is interesting, and I was able to take close shots of plants clinging to the wall of the passage leading from the yacht club. One startling newspaper headline caught our eye : one wonders what the windmill had done.
Tomorrow's forecast is not much better. We can hope. There is no point in leaving a secure harbour to motor through fog. We have been very lucky with the weather so far, so “Abwarten und Tee trinken.”

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