Tresco and Bryher

Day 29
31st May
Another calm night. Woke at about 7.30 and after breakfast got ready and rowed over to the shore. Leaving the dinghy definitely above the HW mark, I made my way along to the quay and caught the ferry to Tresco. This is a larger, more populated and more developed island. Its character has been shaped in recent times by the growth of time-share properties and a heliport. New Grimsby, on the west side, facing Bryher, boasts a very well stocked store and deli. The great number of different cheeses on display give a fair indication of the yuppification of the place. But I had not come to disapprove of what some would call progress. My goal was the Abbey Garden. There was the usual NT style gift shop, and a good cafeteria. First coffee, then in I went.

I shall not attempt to do justice to the place. You have to see it. 150 years of skilful and dedicated work have created something special. High point was, when sitting down for a moment, I saw a hobby zoom past. Even the sun came out. The interesting collection of ships' figureheads held my interest for some time, then it was the cafeteria again and a pasty for lunch. I tried going round again afterwards, but you can only take so much, and somewhat punch-drunk I walked out and along quiet footpaths to the north side and back towards New Grimsby. Here I enjoyed a quiet half hour in the New Inn, and a fine Cornish pint. Onwards and upwards, over the brow of the island to Old Grimsby,which boasts the island primary school. As it was half-term there was no-one there, but use was being made of the playing field. A footpath led uphill to the north and this I followed to the spine of the island. Fine views would have been forthcoming, but the weather chose to deteriorate so much that I simply pressed on, very much aware that I was unsuitably dressed. A somewhat wet and bedraggled sailor trudged into New Grimsby. At the pier is a very useful waiting room, and here I spent the next hour or so reading from the stock of books thoughtfully provided, and waited for the ferry back. Two ladies arrived with a huge stack of luggage and five children. They were camping, and moving from Tresco to Bryher. Very brave. But they cheerfully asserted that it was no worse than the Lake District, and I believed them. Once on Bryher, I strode out rapidly to try to restore some warmth to my chilled person, and it was not long before I was back on board. A quick change of clothes and a hot soup did the trick and restored me.

Day 30
1st June
Woke to more rain. Why get up early? Then a shaft of sunlight illuminated the hatch. The rain had stopped. Whilst making coffee I looked out, and, as if by magic, saw the wall of mist and gloom moving off to the east. Within a few minutes Hugh Town was bathed in sunshine. The rest of the day was cloudless and warm.
Chores done, I rowed over and walked to the pier along the beach. People were about in some numbers. At the shop I got a stamp. The lady serving told me there were some eighty persons on the electoral roll. A stone's throw from the store I came across a little bar/café. A family was drinking in the garden at the front. Upstairs was the café, where I joined half a dozen others for a coffee. Maidstone prices on the tariff. A couple held us all in thrall with a wooden tower game in which you take turns at removing pieces and adding them to the tower. Eventually the husband triumphed, and we could all relax.
Making my way to the north along a clear footpath I climbed to a high point before coming down opposite the two castles that guarded New Grimsby Sound, one built by Charles I, the other by Cromwell. The sea was still rough from yesterday's wind, and the breakers smashing on the rocks were dramatic. Took many pics. At the northern tip of Bryher Shipman Head is separated from the island by a narrow chasm through which the sea was frothing. Even here on the windswept headland there are masses of flowers, especially thrift, in huge masses. Heathers and low-growing honeysuckle abound. From here the path led along the west side, and where the cliffs were eroding the nature of the strata was clear to see. Overlying the granite is boulder clay and moraine from the last ice age. More dramatic pictures of Hell Bay. Not hard to see how it got its name, as it was like a washing machine. Then back along the path pas a previously unseen but apparently well-appointed campsite to the handful of houses called Southward and a little shed café. Inside was clean and bright. Several groups were having lunch. I followed suit with a jacket potato and pot of tea. Very generous, well presented, and the same price you would pay as at home.
Back to the beach, a chat with Mike , who was under his boat scraping the keels. I lent him my new spade, and later he walked over, the tide still being out, and had a cuppa on Pepsand. It occurred to me that the weather would be good for drying, so I did a wash, hanging it all out in the rigging. Now everything is clean again. Good for the hands, too. Now the water was lapping round the boat as I lazed and read the history of the Tresco Abbey Gardens. Still not a cloud in the sky. What a day!!

Day 31
2ndJune
A quiet day spent resting up and getting ready for the trip to Ireland. After breakfast I walked to the Fraggles Safe and had a coffee before going to the shop for a stamp. Back to the beach and a chat with Mike who invited me for a meal on his boat. He is a vegetarian, so it should be different. Later I went back to the shop and bought some red wine to take over. The shop is remarkable in the scope and standard of its wares. Mike said later that the lady owner, who bakes the cakes and pasties, is about to retire. I hope someone as good takes her place. In the afternoon I made full passage plans and did final preparations. The forecast is holding and it should be good, though 140nm is a long one and could take 30 hours.
The tide was nearly in when I rowed over to Mike at 6. We ate in the cockpit. Salmon fish cakes. Delicious! It got chilly when the sun became low in the sky, and we retreated into the saloon. Charlie is such a well-behaved dog. Mike is a good conversationalist, and time went very fast. I rowed back to Pepsand well fed and at peace with the world.

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The Scillies: Bryher

Day 26
Friday 28th May
Forecast quite good to get to Scilly. Light southerly wind. I motorsailed all the way, taking exactly seven hours. There was little sea and visibility was very good. Porth Cressa is a lovely anchorage and handy for Hughtown, but the wind started to get up, and soon the boats were rocking and rolling. All the yachts cleared out. My nearest neighbour suggested Green Bay, on Bryher as being most sheltered, with the added benefit for bilge-keelers that you dry out on the sand over low water, thereby guaranteeing a still night. It took an hour to sail over and re-anchor. There is G3 coverage, too. So all is well again.

Day 27
Saturday 29th May
As predicted, it blew mightily in the night, but sitting high and dry gave me a good night's sleep. Woke early and as the boat lifted, I set the anchor drag alarm, but I need not have bothered. The wind veered about 90 degrees in the early hours as the front passed, but this is a sheltered place.
So a lazy late rising was in order and I dutifully rose at 09.30 as soon as the boat dried out.
After a hearty breakfast it was time to explore, and donning wellies, I waded through an inch or two of water towards the shore, meeting my friend and guide of last night, Mike, another livaboard, on the beach. As we chatted a tractor drove onto the sands and began raking for cockles. We passed the time of day for some time before going our separate ways. I found a dirt track from the beach leading uphill past cottages with delightful gardens, and found the pub. Called Hell Bay, it was not what I expected. It is basically a motel without cars, very yuppy, and staffed by what can only be described as “beautiful people”. Not a hair, not a freckle out of place. There is even a golf course, so you can imagine the clientèle. I was able to order a coffee and read the newspaper, and found a very good little guide book. The views here are amazing. It puts me in mind of Bohusland, on the west coast of Sweden. Granite crags rising majestically from the sea. Only here the climate is so mild they seem to be able to grow anything. Whilst I read the cricket report from Lord's the heavens opened. A good sign: the cold font must be here, and it would soon be sunny again. The shower was brief and presently I was trotting down the track to the post office and shop, which was amazingly well-stocked. Here I got a pasty, bread, milk and tomatoes and a very useful little spade, intended no doubt for the construction of sandcastles, but well suited for digging in the anchor. As the wind was still veering westerly I hauled the anchor round more to the west and dug it in. The sun was now out, but the wind was still quite strong. Apparently this bay is the best shelter in the whole archipelago. Mike said he would go over the charts with me and show me the best anchorages. He intends to “neap” his boat, a Westerly Consort, and carry out maintenance on the underwater hull. It is now spring tides, so he will be high and dry for a fortnight.

Day 28
Sunday 30th May
Dull drizzly day. Cheered myself up with a full monty breakfast, then put the dinghy in the water and got ready to hit the big time. The notice by the quay said there would be a ferry to St. Mary's at 10.45. I bagged up the accumulated rubbish and packed a folding brolly, then rowed to the shore, leaving the dinghy up past the high water mark, as I thought, then set off along the track to the quay. I overtook a family going the same way and fell into conversation with the father. They are spending a week's holiday here, and come here regularly. At the quay a ferry came in from Tresco and went on to St. Mary's, so on I got, the only passenger. It took about fifteen minutes to cross the sound.

Hugh Town is no place to be on a wet Sunday. Most of the shops are shut, and as the place is about the size of Headcorn, the sights are soon taken in. Visibility about half a mile when not raining, less when raining. The brolly was in action from the start. Coffee was called for, and I think there were more people in the pub than in the rest of the town. All the tables were taken, but there was a small annexe to the rear where I found a place, and wrote postcards whilst eking out the cappuccino. Cheaper than in Maidstone. There is a limit to how long you can make one coffee last, and all too soon I was out in the drizzle. Because of the spring tides, low water would prevent the return trip to Bryher before three o'clock. The sensible thing to do was to have Sunday lunch somewhere. I lit upon the Pilot's Gig Restaurant. The place was almost full, a good sign usually, but perhaps the weather was playing its part. There was one table left. When it came, and promptly, it was excellent. Quite the best broccoli and Stilton soup I have ever had; a fine roast lamb with 6 veg; apple pie with cream and a pint of Boddington's, followed by coffee. Two more postcards were written. The room began to empty. One waitress brought her own lunch out and began to eat.
Calling the other lady over I enquired about Ted and Kate Pearce, some friends from way back who were thought to have retired here. The waitress did not know them, but said she knew someone who might, and spoke to an elderly couple opposite. They waved me over. It turned out that they were friends of the Pearce's, and brought me up to date. They had always had a cottage on St. Mary's, but when they retired could not get planning permission to enlarge it, so they ended up in Marazion. Ted had passed on about five years ago, but Kate was still very much alive . They gave me her address and telephone number. And it was nearly time to get the ferry back. On Bryher I picked up some new potatoes from a farm stall and made my way back to the boat. Mike had clearly been working hard on the hull and keels of his yacht. He invited me in for a cuppa, and we fell to yarning about boats, harbours and motorbikes. The lapping of water informed us that the tide was back up, and we suddenly thought of my dinghy. When we looked, it had drifted off and was about 50 metres away. There was no wind, and it wasn't going far. We quickly launched Mike's tender and he rowed me out to it. Then Murphy's Law kicked in, and a gentle zephyr drove the inflatable back to shore! One of life's little tricks. It was good to row out to Pepsand and change into dry clothes. Later I rang Kate and we had a good talk.

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St Ives and St. Michael's Mount

David , based in the Hamble, is also doing a circumnavigation. In the evening John and I strolled into town and had a beer in the Admiral Benbow. This is really a restaurant with a small bar, but dispensing the best Cornish ales.




Day 23
Tuesday 25th May
Following a suggestion by the harbourmaster I took the train to St. Ives. The train journey was short, and cheap, and very scenic. In no time I was exploring St. Ives. Many mainly German tourists were filling the narrow streets. The whole place was beautifully set off in the cloudless weather. Having walked from one end to the other and sent postcards I partook of cod and chips in a little joint calling itself the Seaview Café The food was of the very best, and served with the utmost cheerfulness by a highly tattooed young lady. Then on to the pier and a chat with an assistant harbourmaster, who pointed out the moorings and advised against coming to St. Ives in any but the calmest weather. Point taken. Then back to the train and Penzance. Stayed in tonight and got cruise log up to date, cleared e-mails, etc.
Day 24
Wednesday 26th May
After breakfast strolled into town and did a little shopping. Posted cards, and returned to the boat. A couple in a Westerly Consort had come back from the Scillies and tied up outside David. He meanwhile had decided to walk to Mousehole, some five miles down the coast. John has a problem with oil levels in engine and gearbox on his yacht, and has been running the engine to try to establish what is happening. He invited myself and the young couple on “Supernaut” to lunch at a pub at the top of the town. Here we had a very good repast of ham, eggs and chips. Then strolled back to the harbour for the last time before moving Pepsand out to the outside of the raft prior to leaving. The Scillies freighter moved out first and then it was time to go. I shall have good memories of Penzance and the people I met there.
The short trip across the bay took only half an hour . Tying up at the little quay was not difficult with a light east wind blowing the boat on. A fleet of little ferries was discharging those German tourists next to the berth. A good trade. To my delight, there is good G3 coverage here, so the blog will be kept up to date.

Day 25
Thursday 27th May
A good night. The boat lay alongside with no banging, and as on the bottom again soon after breakfast. As the gardens and castle did not open before 10.30 I walked over the causeway to Marazion and bought postcards and stamps. It was shaping up to be another hot sunny day. When I came back to the island there was still time to kill, so I had a coffee in the restaurant, then paid up and went in. Of course it is spectacular, and quite a flog to get to the castle level. The accommodation is surprisingly cosy. I could happily live there. The décor is tasteful, and the whole is on a human scale.
The gardens are stunning! The combination of Gulf Stream climate, south-facing slopes and granite bedrock that absorbs heat by day and releases it by night enables semitropical flora to grow here.
Coming down from the garden,still excited by what I had just seen, I spotted a sign from the past. A lady was wearing a jacket the back of which was adorned with the picture of a glider I knew well, the Slingsby T31 Tandem Tutor. I asked her if she knew of the Vintage Glider Club. She replied that she and her husband were members. He turned back and I immediately recognised Jan Forster, a long-standing Dutch member of the VGC. A small world..again!! After talking for a while they agreed to come over to the boat for a cup of tea and chat after they had seen the castle.
This they did, and we spent a happy hour reminiscing and updating. Jan, now chairman of the VGC had been over for a committee meeting, and was spending a few days with his wife holidaying in Cornwall in his camper van.
Shortly after they left the boat floated and I set sail back to Penzance. The harbourmaster was busy rearranging boats in the harbour. Things were not going easily, and I had to wait over an hour to get in. I filled in the time reaching back and forth, and caught three mackerel. These were consumed on Pepsand by myself, Steve and Sarah, the livaboards on Supernaut. I invited them and John Lyne over for a meal which we ate al fresco in the cockpit. John, who does not like mackerel, had sausages, and celebrated by bringing over a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc. Later we went to the Ship Inn for a quick drink. I had decided to go to Scilly, leaving early morning.

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Truro River, Helford River and Penzance

Day 18
Thursday May 20th
Woke after strange dreams to find Steve up and making coffee. The day was better.. you could see the other side of the river. The forecast gave light winds and smooth sea so we decided to make for Falmouth. This was achieved. Visibility was never good, but we could see the headlands and the smooth sea made spotting pot markers easy. Today we saw guillemot, a lone puffin, shearwater, fulmar, gannet and diver. A mackerel went into the freezer, and we fuelled up before hitting the town. Falmouth is bigger than I expected, and has good shops. We bought meat and wandered up and down the main drag before coming back to Pepsand. G3 connection OK, so the blog was updated. Tomorrow we plan to visit the National Maritime Museum.
The Visitors' Yacht Haven at Falmouth is very convenient, only about 100m from the main shopping street and two excellent pubs. In the evening we ate at the one where we had two fine meals for £10, and drank in the other, just to be fair. Unlike at Fowey the boat lay very quietly and we slept well.
Day 19
Friday May 21st

Up at 06.30 and had leisurely breakfast . The boat was looking decidedly scruffy, so we spent some time washing down the cockpit. By 09.50 everything was done, and we made our way to the museum, only pausing at a wonderful hardware store, Trago Mills, where I managed to get a stainless steel anchor swivel and some cork tiles, which will come in useful to repair the cork tile floor of the cabins.
At this early hour the museum would be very empty, or so we thought. Even as we paid (thanks, Steve) the familiar sounds of a reception class in full voice assailed our eardrums. Accordingly we put some distance between ourselves and the rampaging horde. The museum was interesting and well laid out, in a splendid building, with a fine café which commands the best views in Falmouth, but it was somewhat small to be styled a National Maritime Museum. We came away and did a little food shop. I was able to buy a chunk of Yarg, a Cornish cheese. Back on Pepsand we tried it for lunch : a bit like Wensleydale in taste and Havarti in texture. While Steve supped his coffee in the now blazing sun, I prepared a stuffed breast of lamb and put it in the oven to roast We then left the pontoon and motored upriver to a sheltered spot by Malpas to anchor. A brief check with the harbour authority informed us that the present tides are not sufficient for us to proceed to Truro, which is a shame, but Steve can go ashore and be picked up by Marcus at Malpas, which is barely three miles downriver.


Once at anchor we enjoyed our lamb with boiled new potatoes, green beans and a salade nicoise made by Steve, washed down with some Italian vino da tavola that had been cooling in the fridge. This is living!! The temperature in the boat was not helped by the cooking. Today was the first really hot day, and inside out of the sun it was 25 degrees. In the cockpit it was hotter. There has not been a cloud in the sky since the morning haze lifted. Steve got in the dinghy and cleaned some scum off the hull which had been troubling him. At one stage a harbour patrol launch came alongside and the gentleman pleasantly relieved us of £5 for the privilege of anchoring. If you tie up to a visitors pontoon here it is £3 for 2 hours, or £12 for 24 hours. No water or electricity of course, but rubbish bins are provided. The evening was spent enjoying the isolation. The river was alive with fish rushing just under the surface and leaping out. Egret and heron patrolled the shallows whilst shelduck and gulls hoovered up on the exposed flats on the inside of the bend. We sat outside until dark, finally going to bed at a quarter to eleven.



Day 20
Sat May 22
Another scorcher, but with some wind to keep things a little cooler. Up at 07.00. After breakfast did jobs around the boat. Steve prepared a goulash which he would never taste. A lone heron successfully fished the water,s edge. Marcus was due at about midday. At half past eleven we raised anchor , dropped off rubbish in the bins provided on a nearby pontoon and made our way a few hundred metres to Malpas, tying up at a pontoon. Contact with M was established and at almost 13.00 he arrived. We soon paddled across in the dinghy and so Steve left. I shall miss him. He has been an ideal sailing companion.
Back on Pepsand I motored downriver with the tide and as soon as it opened out into the estuary I was able to kill the motor and sail on the genoa, out past Falmouth and St. Mawes and on to the Helford River, and anchored at Porth Saxon, just inside the river mouth, at 16.15.


Scenically, the anchorage was wonderful. It appeared to be roomy and sheltered, and peaceful. Unfortunately the east wind kicked up a swell which set Pepsand rolling. I did not have a good night.


Day 21
Sun May 23
Woke early and after a quick breakfast left the Helford River, motoring out into a choppy sea. Once in deep water and heading south towards the Lizard the sea became much kinder and we motorsailed on genoa as far as the point. The forecast Nef5 kicked in , and so the rest of the trip to Penzance was reaching at 4 – 5 kt. on the genoa. HM Coastguard warned yachtsmen that powerboat racing was taking place in Mount's Bay, just off Penzance, but they were not difficult to see, hear, and avoid. Penzance Harbour is not large. There is a drying part to the north, and a deep water , smaller section to the south which was easy to spot since the Scillonian was parked at the outer pier. On rounding that, you enter through a lock gate which opens for about three hours at the top of the tide during the day. I had timed it to arrive at HW. The harbourmaster was very laid-back, and took my lines himself. They were offering three days for the price of two, and as I needed a rest and a chance to find a launderette, etc., I took it. Again there was not a cloud in the sky all day. We tied up third out on a raft of yachts. John, the owner of the inside yacht, lives aboard and overwinters in Penzance. He turned out to be a mine of useful information. As he was so helpful and I had rather more goulash than I could manage myself, I invited him over for a meal. Later we walked round the town and he showed me interesting buildings. Naturally we ended in a pub, the Dolphin, where yet another fine pint of Cornish ale was consumed. And so to bed.


Day 22
Monday 24th May
Woke at eight after a really good night. The harbour is very quiet at night. A leisurely breakfast was followed by a hot shower and shave, then it was launderette time. Following John's directions I found it first time and made contact with a form of technology that I had neglected since getting married.

As a ten-year-old I used to take the family washing on my soapbox buggy down Newland Avenue to a launderette near the Monica cinema, thereby earning my pocket money. This Penzance launderette was space-age in refinement. No messing with soap powder or detergent. Put in clothes; insert coins; select temperature; press GO. The tumble-dryer was equally simple and fast. In no time I was out in the hot sun with my washing done. Back on board a cup of tea went down well, as did a little midday nap, broken by the arrival of David, in a very fine Danish-built yacht, tying up alongside Pepsand.

Fowey to Falmouth

Later, with adequate rise of tide we moved further upriver to a truly beautiful anchorage, Dandy Hole. Here we enjoyed a tranquil evening, even launching the dinghy and taking snaps of the boat as she lay at anchor, and went to bed very content.
Morning came and Steve beat me to it again. I think it is less thirst/hunger/bladder pressure, and more the need for nicotine that gets him out of bed. The morning was spectacular in its stillness. The river lay before us like a sheet of glass, broken only by the splashing of tiny fish and a myriad jellyfish gently brushing the surface as they swam by on the rising tide. And then a deer swam across and spent several minutes seeking a path up the steep bank to the south. After that, bacon, sausage and egg seemed mundane.

Replete and well rested, we left Dandy Hole at 09.10 and motored downriver and out into the Sound. We motorsailed with the main trying to help but not really giving any push until we cleared Rame Head and were able to open out on a westerly heading. The wind picked up, and for a while we were able to beat nearly parallel to the coast across Whitesand Bay. Visibility became very poor, but there were few vessels and hardly any crab pot markers to worry about. By St. George's Island we rolled in the genoa and motorsailed again past Polperro and on to Fowey. Here we used the short stay pontoon to go ashore, shop, and pay our dues. Once moored to the overnight pontoon we were able to relax and enjoy the weather as the sun came out and things warmed up.
After a rest we took the ferry to Fowey and went to the Fowey Gallants YC but they were not yet open. It seemed logical to eat and then try. In the Globe Restaurant we ate well and were soon back at the club. Eventually we worked out how the showers operated, and indulged. Coming into the bar we enquired after the visitors' book. It was in the lobby. We duly signed in, and were immediately greeted by, “What will you have?”. It turned out to be a very pleasant evening chatting with the few members present. Back to Pepsand on the ferry and bed.

Day 17
Wednesday 19th May
The first non-sailing day. Hardly any wind, hardly any visibility, but lots of light but fine, drenching rain. At least it wasn't cold. Up late, we sat around and read until 12.30. The Cornish pasties we had bought yesterday seemed huge, so we heated one up and shared it. In the afternoon the rain stopped and we took the ferry back to Fowey and visited the posher of the two clubs, the Royal Fowey YC, where I was able to shave. We wandered through the town, visited the museum and the aquarium. Perhaps there would be more things of interest across the river in Polruan. Apart from a busy little shipyard, two pubs and a teashop there was little to see. The coast path would have been good, but not in zero visibility. The tea shop was good. We enjoyed toasted crumpets and tea/coffee and took the ferry back. A small cargo vessel left the port sounding its foghorn, a mournful thing. For me the afternoon was enlivened by a pied wagtail which clearly made a good living scrounging on the quayside .It was tame enough for me to get a good photo.
The flora here is interesting, and I was able to take close shots of plants clinging to the wall of the passage leading from the yacht club. One startling newspaper headline caught our eye : one wonders what the windmill had done.
Tomorrow's forecast is not much better. We can hope. There is no point in leaving a secure harbour to motor through fog. We have been very lucky with the weather so far, so “Abwarten und Tee trinken.”

Plymouth and the Tamar

In the afternoon we walked round the Barbican and on round the seafront and back over the Hoe. Sir Francis was still keeping an eye on things. Back at the harbour we consumed what must be the most impressive beefburgers from Capt'n Jasper's Shack before returning to Pepsand. Whilst this marina is expensive, the service you get is first class, and it is incredibly convenient for the shopping centre of Plymouth. Fried mackerel for tea, and then a pint in the nearest pub, about 100 metres from the marina gate.

Day 15
Monday 17th May
Slept very well. Steve was up first and made coffee. Then cereals and toast. By now the marina reception was open, so we paid and managed to buy a new gas bottle, as ours had run out. To solve the problem of charging mobile and netbook we made our way through the Drake Circus shopping centre to Maplin's where, for a consideration , we obtained an inverter and a charger. The problem appears to be solved.
The tide was high and the lock open for free flow of water and traffic, so we were able to exit the marina promptly, and made up the Tamar, past the Devonport Naval Dockyard.

Passing the German warship Koln we dipped our ensign, but got no response. Bright and sunny. We soon shed pullovers and motored upriver in shirtsleeves. We had hoped to get to Calstock, but the falling tide removed the water, and we turned round to avoid getting stuck, not before running onto the mud once or twice. With the ebbing tide pushing us along we came back rather faster than we went up, and were able to admire the Tamar bridges from the other side before turning west up the St German's River to anchor. Here Steve got cracking and fitted a 12v socket beside the table for convenient charging of the netbook.This is working as I write. What a sailing companion!

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Dartmouth and the Yealm

Day 12
Friday 14th May
After a late start we walked down into Totnes and managed to find a camera shop where I could obtain a replacement card for the Olympus. Then we strolled to the end of the High St and back to the market, where there was a fairly naff collectors' fair, but under the stage we found a really good café and enjoyed a bacon buttie and tea. Then back to the boat, taking pics en route. Totnes is an attractive place.

This was another little eatery we passed. Pepsand was high and dry, exposing her interesting bits. At low water it was instructive to note the position of large rocks littering the river bed. For some reason Pepsand had adopted a nose-down attitude. Steve read whilst I had a little sleep. After tea we waited until the boat lifted and at 6pm we left the pontoon and moved down to the town quay pontoon in Dartmouth. The berthing officer was an ex-teacher who had taught music at King's Rochester about the same time as I sang in the cathedral choir there. He knew all the usual suspects, including Nick Maddox and John Etherton. Small world!
Dinner was chilli con carne, and , replete, we took ourselves into Dartmouth and the Windjammer for a pint. Then back to the boat. I am now getting 3G internet connection reliably, which is pleasing.

Day 13 Saturday 15th May

A condition of using the very convenient pontoon in Dartmouth is that you have to leave by 08.30. So after an early breakfast we walked around the centre of town, taking pics.
We had topped up with water at Totnes, and it seemed sensible to top up with diesel here, as there is a very convenient fuel barge only a few metres from the quay. This done, we left the Dart and headed west for the Yealm. The trip was uneventful. Three fish were caught, when the sun came out it was warm enough for us to shed our coats. At 16.00 we tied up at a visitors' pontoon in the Yealm at the same time as a larger boat decided to berth down-tide and downwind. Luckily there were some handy persons taking their lines and they brought them to a rapid halt. Otherwise it would have meant taking avoiding action and going round again. Once more we have landed in a really beautiful spot. It is sheltered and warm in the sun.

Day 14
Sunday 16th May
Last night after a meal we took the inflatable across to the jetty and walked along the footpath to the Yealm Yacht Club at Newton Ferrers for a pint. Newton Creek is quite enchanting, the beer was very good, but soon we had to get back to Pepsand. The transition to boat from shore was uneventful. A Dufour 24 was rafted up outside us when we got back.
This morning it soon became apparent we wouldn't be going far. The wind has gone round to the west, bringing rain and poor visibility. Since Plymouth was only a few miles away we decided to make for a marina in the town and then at least if the weather doesn't improve we have something to do, if only shopping. My 12v phone charger has packed in, so will have to be replaced. I can still charge up whenever we are plugged in to shore power thanks to the 13a sockets on board.
Our neighbours rose at about 09.00 and after a hearty breakfast we followed them out of the river and round the Great Mewstone, upon which we noticed a sort of bothy. Perhaps a refuge hut or hermit's shack? Once round the corner we could sail all the way to the Cattewater. The lock-keeper was very helpful . Inside the marina we were given the berth D2, and had no idea where to steer, but a pleasant yoof waved us in and took our lines. We sit virtually alongside the offices. Showers, which are state-of-the-art, rubbish bins, exit to the wide world of Plymouth are all but a few steps away. Internet access works (!) after a fashion. Now we learned of the further closing of British airspace by volcanic dust. Unfortunately, Isolde is flying back from Germany today. The Stansted website said they are expecting her flight as normal, so she may be lucky.

The Lovely Dart.

Day 11
Thursday 13th May
A lazy start. We got up at gone 08.00 and had a leisurely breakfast. I decided it was time to change the fuel filters. The old ones came off, no trouble. Then the new ones went on. Could we bleed the system?? No fuel flow. Logic demanded that an air leak was preventing fuel from running through the system. Eventually we discovered that we had been trying to fit two o-rings where one should be, and rectified that one. Still no diesel. There was plenty of fuel in the tank, but we emptied a jerry can of fuel into the main tank to fill it and raise the level. This allowed fuel to fill the primary filter bowl. By turning the engine over with the decompression lever lifted we thought we would get fuel through to the fine filter, but it did not want to come. Finally we filled the fine filter from a funnel, replaced the bleed screw and turned the engine over. After some hesitation it ran!! By now it was 11.00 and our restful morning had gone, but we enjoyed a shower, and for me, a shave before walking down into town. I was able to buy a card reader at last, and Steve did some food shopping. Back on the boat we had lunch and set off for Dartmouth.
Outside the harbour it was blowing SWf4, so we sailed on the genoa before turning south and motoring to the entrance of the Dart. There we sailed again until we entered the narrows and the wind became very flukey.

Dartmouth is very interesting. The banks rise steeply from the river, where there are very many moorings. Two ferries, which have right of way, ply back and forth. Being there early in the season meant we had no problems, and we were soon winding up a most picturesque river whose well wooded banks were a pleasure to behold. The timing was good. In the Brixham Yacht Club a gentleman had told us the best time to be at Dartmouth for going up to Totnes was three hours before HW. We were early on that, and had no difficulty motoring quietly upriver to the Baltic Wharf. At Dittisham I rang Baltic Wharf, and was given instructions, and , importantly, the gate code.

Finding the pontoon and tying up was no problem and we were soon on our way into town. Totnes is pretty and seems well-heeled. About the size of Tenterden, it is divided by the Dart. We arrived after things had calmed down in the evening. In the Lord Nelson we enjoyed a good meal and a couple of pints before mooching back to Pepsand, still afloat. We shall stop over here for a day, perhaps dropping down on the tide tomorrow night to a n anchorage or mooring nearer to Dartmouth.

To Brixham

Day 9
Tuesday 11th May
Left Weymouth at 08.00 and reached out to Portland Bill. Encountered a little rough stuff, but by the time I had started the engine we were out of it. The wind was not as strong as forecast, and it soon became apparent that we would have to motor all the way to Brixham, so we changed plan and made for Axmouth running along at some 4kts using the cruising chute and main. Even so the wind was disappointing and eventually went northerly. So we motored inshore and then sailed parallel to the coast past Lyme Regis towards our destination. The sea was very calm and Steve prepared a fine meal of beef braised in wine with peppers. We did manage to catch two fine mackerel. They will do for tomorrow. When we were about half an hour away the harbourmaster at Axmouth advised us that the bar was not really safe today. Accordingly we motored back to Lyme Regis and tied up against the harbour wall at 17.35.
After tea we walked over to the yacht club and enjoyed a pint and a chat with one of their senior members, also an ex-teacher, before turning in at 10pm. Early start required tomorrow. HW 0600.
Day 10
Wednesday 12th May.
Woke at about 5.00 and made porridge for breakfast. It did not take long to ready the boat for sea. As thee was no space to turn under way we wound the boat before setting off. The forecast Nef3 was there as soon as we left the shelter of the harbour, and we were soon moving along the coast, about half a mile off, towards Axmouth. Here we came close inshore so Steve could see the narrow entrance, and then we set course to pass close in by Beer Head. The wind seemed ideal to run double headed down to Brixham, and so we hoisted the chute and did so for a short while before the wind petered slowly out and began to vary in direction. Some shower clouds were advancing. We accordingly snuffed the chute and changed tack with the genoa, but the achieved speed of just over two knots was insufficient, and so the engine was employed. Then came the rain, not heavy and not prolonged, but then the wind moved round further so that we were motorsailing on a beat into a southerly sea breeze. This continued to Brixham where we tied up on the club pontoon at 14.00.
Shortly;y after that the dinghy was launched and paddled over to the steps. The clubhouse was open but unattended, so we moseyed off down to town and a spot of food shopping.

Catch up!

Have had further problems with internet access, but am now in Wetherspoons in Weymouth, getting the blog up to date. Simplest and quickest is to copy my cruise log.

Day 4
6th May
Left Rye at nearly six and motored out to the harbour entrance. As soon as we were outside the wind began to pick up from the north east, and so the genoa was unrolled and engine switched off. The wind gradually built to force 4 and apart from a brief episode off Seaford where the wind dropped of completely for a few minutes, we sailed all the way. It dropped as a sea breeze set in, and soon main was set and off we sped on the other tack. The initial destination, Newhaven, was soon forgotten, and course set for Littlehampton. Tied up there at 18.00. Fish and chips for supper!
Day 5
7th May
On the boat I have no difficulty waking and getting going. The alarm was set for 6 but I woke at 5.30. After the usual hearty breakfast the little ship was soon ready for the sea. The anticyclone over the eastern Atlantic continues to supply a favourable wind, N'ly f4 is forecast. As we leave the pontoon and make our way along the river to the sea it is calm. 2.4m depth at the bar. Almost immediately the wind picks up and after motoring out far enough to give space into wind, the main is set and the genoa unrolled. It is very satisfying to use the engine only to get in and out of port.
4kts is reached, then 5, but it settles at around 4. This is ideal trolling speed for mackerel, so the rod is soon in action. By nine o'clock tonight's supper is caught. Last weekend the farm shop at Brize Norton was selling these mackerel at over £3 each! Through the Looe Channel in fine style we accelerate as we turn from a broad reach to a beam reach and then a fine reach. From Selsey you can see the Spinnaker Tower in the sunshine. By way of a change I choose to pass through the old submarine barrier to the north of the Horse Tower, and enter Portsmouth Harbour as the Royal Navy, in the shape of HMS Dauntless, moves out. The Royal Clarence Marina was quite full, and not trying very hard, so I moved back a few hundred metres to the old Camper and Nicholson yard, Now Gosport Marina, where I was received with courtesy , if not affection. Text from Steve: he comes tomorrow. Also texts from Birgit and Mogens, confirming their travel arrangements to meet me in Scotland in July. The marina is very near the main shopping street in Gosport, and so I was soon in Morrison's, stocking up. It is in places like this that you sense the economic downturn. So many charity shops! Tomorrow morning I plan to take the ferry to Portsmouth and seek out a card reader. If Steve comes early enough we can slip across the Solent to Newtown River to anchor for the night before sailing to Weymouth the next day. If the anchorage is too crowded we shall have to choose between Yarmouth and Lymington, or perhaps Keyhaven. If he comes late we can seek out an anchorage in the upper reaches of the harbour here.
Day 6
8th May
Slept till 8!! Had shave and shower, then changed into “walking out “ clothes, and had a hearty breakfast at the Crew Mess Café, after which took the ferry to Pompey. The aircraft carrier that had been moored across the river had gone during the night. At Gunwharf Quays in Carphone Warehouse a very capable and pleasant IT expert, Richard, succeeded in installing my BT mobile modem and getting me on internet. Bought a USB mouse. The fiddly touch pad had been annoying me somewhat. No luck with the xD card reader. The light rain is still falling. A good day to spend in port. There is a half-hourly train service from Waterloo, so Steve could show up any time. As I typed that, he arrived at the boat, with Isolde, who had driven him over from Canterbury. We chatted over a cuppa until it was time for her to drive back. As it was still only 1pm and the weather, though cool and damp, was very suitable, with the Northeasterly breeze I have been getting used to, we decided to head off down the Solent. It being Saturday there were many yachts by East Coast standards, but it was quiet by the standard here. We tooled along downwind but into tide at a respectable 4kt, but decided to use the motor to get to Yarmouth in time to go out for a meal. A call to the marina established that there was space for us, and we squeeezed into a 28'6” gap on Red Pontoon at 7pm. Our chosen eatery was the Blue Crab, a fish restaurant that Paul and I discovered a few years back. Steve insisted on treating me. He's the sort of crew you want!! At about 10pm we negotiated the short crossing back to the boat in the inflatable and went to bed. In the night the wind got up, but we were pretty snug.
Day 7
Sunday 9th May
Woke early and had breakfasted by 7.30. The marina runs a water taxi service, and the boat just happened along as it became apparent to us that we needed to get ashore. The young lady driver was very skilled and deposited us at the office in no time, taking us back to Pepsand shortly after. Since putting the boat back in the water I had not refilled the tanks, so we watered up before leaving at 7.45. The weather was certainly drier than the day before, the wind a good f4, and soon we were progressing down-tide towards the Needles. Here we turned to a westerly heading for Poole. The trip across the bay was uneventful, and we finally anchored in South Deep at 1.30. Steve excelled himself by cooking sausages for lunch and capped this by getting my GPS repeater working and tidying up the wiring. I had unwittingly disabled the GPS NMEA port. The warmer day forecast did not happen, but it helped when the tide turned and allowed the boat to head into wind at anchor. The passing tripper boats were not well filled. The same weather is promised for tomorrow, so we shall head for Weymouth.

Another day

Left Dover at 07.45, and let a cruise liner berth before hitting the high seas. What a difference 24 hours makes. Today was a gentle sail almost downwind and certainly down-tide to Rye. Boatspeed never above 3.5kts, but smooth sea except for the inevitable disturbance from the ferries. After passing Dungeness close inshore I was passed by the smallest square rigger I have ever seen. It seemed an age before we cleared the Lydd firing range, but the wind remained steady and by 16.15 we were tied up at the Strand in Rye.

There had to be a hitch, and my card reader packed up. However, a visit to the Rye Internet Cafe brought help and sustenance with a certain Gallic charm, as the proprietors are French. Vive l'Entente Cordiale!

Under Way

The adventure has begun. last night Ingrid and Jerry brought me to Conyer and after a cuppa in the clubhouse they departed and I left the marina, dropping down the Swale as far as Harty to moor for the night. After a good night the mooring was slipped at 05.30, and we motored out of the Swale into a stiff northerly. Fortunately there was enough north in the wind to allow a long beat on half genoa along the north Kent coast. Progress was rapid, and from North Foreland the wind was behind, and so we continued at a merry pace, the tide dutifully pushing us along. Broadstairs, Ramsgate and Deal passed in turn and at 12.30 we tied up in Dover Marina. Over 40 miles. A good first day.