Postscript

Cruise Statistics

In the three months away we used 24 marinas, 5 drying harbours, 12 deep water harbours, stayed at 5 clubs, used one mooring overnight and anchored overnight 7 times. We did over 1800nm.

300 litres of diesel, 5 litres of oil, 2 oil filters and 4 fuel filters were consumed, and four bottles of calor gas.

The marinas were generally of a high standard, with the more expensive ones not necessarily the best. Most disappointing was Oban, though the free ferry service made up for some of the shortcomings. Sutton Harbour was the dearest, but gave very good value in terms of service and convenience. Smaller places such as Ardglass, Glenarm and Whitehills were the best and most welcoming, though probably the largest, Bangor, was excellent and not as expensive as some of the lesser places.

Drying harbours are always interesting and sometimes fraught with the unexpected. You are never guaranteed to dry out upright. Rye and Lyme Regis are well set up for yachts, others less so. This was refreshing, as at St. Michael's Mount, or disappointing, as at Bridlington and Balbriggan. Some harbours charged, others not. There did not seem to be much logic in this, except that it probably costs more than it is worth to collect the money. The deep water harbours were equally variable. This all added to the interest.

The anchorages were all picturesque and the process went well. In Porth Cressa The wind got up suddenly and raising the anchor on my own was somewhat strenuous. Elsewhere the whole thing went very smoothly and we did not drag, though the wind sometimes prevented a proper night's rest. Dandy Hole and the River Fal, and especially Lindisfarne, were idyllic.

The clubs were without exception very welcoming and helpful, and inexpensive. Thank you to Lyme Regis Y.C., Brixham Y.C., Fowey Gallants Y.C., Royal Northumberland Y.C., Humber Cruising Association, Royal Norfolk and Suffolk Y.C., Southwold Y.C.

The Caledonian Canal was well organised, and the staff friendly and very helpful. The amenities, however, were extremely variable, from excellent, at Banavie, to poor at Seaport Marina, and non-existent in other places.

The weather began well. A north-easterly airstream persisted until we reached Fowey, where the first non-sailing day occurred, because of dense fog. However, it was not warm, and shorts were worn only twice: in Brixham and in the Fal. The overnight passage to Ireland was helped by a NEf4/5 breeze, but this kept going and penned us in at Wicklow. A short anticyclone improved things for Strangford Lough, where I enjoyed two days' summer weather, and enjoyable sailing as far as Ballycastle. As soon as Lucy and I reached Scottish waters the weather turned foul, and from there on a string of depressions reduced our opportunities. No anchoring off, no exploring in the islands except by road. From Islay to Corpach it was a case of waiting for a lull and going for the next shelter. In the Caledonian Canal conditions were dominated by rain. Once we came back to the sea things improved, and we were not kept from sailing from Inverness onward. The longest day-sail was 97nm from Boddam to Eyemouth in 16hrs. The shortest was Corpach to Banavie, but including Neptune's Staircase, 1.3nm. From Eyemouth the winds were mainly from the west and rarely strong, so that sailing was always possible.

Bridlington, Grimsby and Wells and on to Suffolk and home

Day 86

27th July

This morning was spent in port. A very helpful chandlery salesman found me a replacement fuse holder, which I managed to solder in place in the switchboard. In clearing weather it was possible to sail the 17nm to Bridlington, nestling in the bay behind Flamborough Head. This place really needs a shake-up. Obtaining no response to my VHF calls, I tried the mobile phone. No joy. The tide was fine, so in we went, and when I had finished tying up to a catamaran on the South Quay, a harbour worker asked if I was a visitor, and suggested that I tied up to the wall itself, behind the other boat. He explained that they could not keep a full watch going as they had other jobs to do, and they had lost the handheld VHF set. Later he brought a form for me to fill in. I had been looking forward to a shower or even a bath at the Royal Yorkshire Yacht Club, but the premises were deserted. There are no other facilities apart from public conveniences at Bridlington Harbour.

Day 87
28th July

From Bridlington I had a long sail down to Spurn, catching mackerel for Jo. I was able to sail sedately at under 4kt until Spurn, where engine was required to cross the Humber VTS shipping lanes into wind and in the teeth of a very heavy shower. Cousin Jo(doubly so, since my father's younger brother married my mother's younger sister) came to the Humber Cruising Association Marina to pick me up. Via the Humber Bridge it did not take long to reach her home in Hessle, where a tasty meal was soon on the table.

Day 88
29th July

A day with cousins Jo, Jon and David, and niece Sarah, ended with Jo, David, his wife Karen and I spending the evening together, eating out at the Wrygarth Inn.

Day 89
30th July

Cousin Jon came over at 06.30 and after breakfast drove Jo and me to Grimsby. Here the Old Fish Dock lock is open for freeflow for two hours either side of high water. Leaving promptly, the westerly breeze soon had us rattling along at over 5kt. At 08.50 we entered the Eastern Hemishere and skirted the bombing range at Donna Nook. The wind became squally, with slight showers, prompting me to reef the genoa, but we beat close inshore as far as Skegness, coming inshore of the wind farm, before a heavier shower killed the wind. The rest of the way to Wells was courtesy of the "iron topsail" bringing us to the Wells Bar an hour before high water. There was space on the pontoon, the harbourmaster taking the lines. During the evening there was a very heavy downpour. Lucky it had not come a few hours earlier. 67nm.

Day 90
31st July

Did jobs round the boat in the morning until the Baileys (elder daughter Hanna, husband Steve, grandchildren Izzy and Dicky) arrived at eleven. We spent a pleasant family day at Wells, walking to the beach, having fish and chips lunch and shopping before generally chilling out on the boat. Izzy and Steve left at about four o'clock to drive back to East Peckham. We settled down to await the morrow. The evening was enlivened by a recording of a Goon Show.

Day 92
1st August.
The quiet weather continued. Leaving Wells at 09.15 we soon crossed the bar and were heading east over a smooth sea in the company of “Pilet” a Rossiter Pintail sloop, also heading for Lowestoft. The gentle wind ensured that we motored all the way, but a fast passage close inshore brought us to Lowestoft shortly before 19.00. Close inshore by Cromer we witnessed the lifeboat being winched back up the slipway after a training sortie, but the most interesting aspect of the trip was a helicopter/lifeboat demonstration off Caister. Even Dicky got quite excited. Richard is now tall enough to be able to help hand sails, put out fenders and be generally useful about the boat. The Royal Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club is welcoming and the amenities are excellent. A Dutch yacht rafted up on Pepsand. Two ladies with two little girls scampered over the foredeck en route to the clubhouse. This is an interesting building, having been built a hundred years ago in fine style. It has stood the test of time. The original plumbing in the gents' toilet is a masterpiece of Victorian pipework in copper and brass.

Day 93
2nd August
The morning was taken up with shopping, writing cards. As we were heading for Southwold, only 10 miles down the track, we could leave late. A heavy shower delayed things, and we also took the opportunity to refuel. The hop to Southwold was short and sweet. We arrived at about 16.00 and tied up by the pub and clubhouse. The day was improving. We braved the risk of a shower and walked over the fields to the town. A few food items were obtained. We came back to the harbour, had tea, and went into the club for showers at 19.00. Later in the bar we chatted with a lady member of the club, clearly still in the first flush of enthusiasm, having recently bought a boat. The night was quiet, except for Richard's snores.

Day 94
3rd August
An early start was imperative to avoid having to stay until the afternoon. We crept out at 06.00 on a still grey morning. The sea was like a mirror as we motored quietly into the tide past Dunwich, the atomic power station at Sizewell, Thorpe Ness and Aldeburgh. Here a wind started up which swung quickly round to south-west, and as we passed Orford Ness we were able to beat to windward on genoa alone, with the tide now beginning to assist our passage. Soon we were making over 5kt, and reached the mouth of the Deben about 3hrs before high water. This time the least depth was well inside the green buoy as we ran parallel to the beach into the river. Every time it is a different entry. Arriving at Woodbridge well before high water we had to wait almost two hours for a berth. Picking up a vacant mooring, we sat and sat. Then we were hailed, not by the marina on VHF, but by a voice from another boat, “Blue Scoter” from Conyer, whose owners recognised “Pepsand”. Some time later we were hailed again, this time by the owner of the mooring, who politely wondered if he could get back onto it. So we moved to another buoy just outside the marina entrance. Finally, as we were tucking into a much-needed meal, the call came. Tied up at last, we finished our tea before testing out the new ablutions block. This has been built to a high standard, and is well-thought-out. We plan to stay here for two nights, the better to enjoy the town, which is rather special.

Day 95
4th August
Wednesday gave us a pleasant morning in town. I failed to gain WIFI access, but used the library to clear e-mails and explain the problem on the blog. In Mrs. Piper's Café we had coffee and scones. Dicky went for the sausage roll option. A quick dash round the supermarket and butcher's set us up for the rest of the trip. We headed back to the marina for our lunch. Even as we finished, the rain began. However, Hanna and Dicky went over to the Tidemill Museum whilst I changed the alternator belt, which had begun to stretch. Then a siesta. We tried to catch one of the large eels which lurk in the murky depths of the marina, but to no avail. In the evening we walked up the hill to the King's Head for a very enjoyable meal. In the bar the oak beams are reputed to be some of the largest in the country. Then a quiet stroll by a different route back to the boat. Woodbridge has everything you could want: good rail connection; good shopping; good marina; good pubs and eateries, even a cinema close to the marina.

Day 96
5th August
I had planned to drop down the river and go round to Harwich before heading on for Brightlingsea, and, leaving at 08.00 on the tide, we began to do that. As we were crossing the Wadfield Ledge, the dulcet tones of Thames Coastguard announced the weather forecast. The outlook for the following 24 hours was not good, and promised a rough ride along the Swin in “wind over tide” conditions on Friday afternoon, so the decision was taken to use today's good conditions to get to the Swale, and possibly into the marina. The westerly breeze was enabling us to beat past Harwich at over four knots, and the neap tide was weak, reducing our speed over the ground by half a knot. This held until we reached the Swin Spitway and crossed into the East Swin, when the wind backed slightly. However we could motorsail on a track of 220 degrees to the SW Barrow buoy. Annoyingly, as we opened out the angle to cross the Estuary the wind dropped to nothing and then set in from the south. All the way from Walton we had been in the company of “Blue Scoter”, but here we pulled away as I wished to arrive before high water. In the end we arrived at the best time, one hour before high water, and were able to enter the creek, ploughing a few metres at the bar, and scraped into the marina, ploughing our way into a berth at 20.00. The meal that had been cooking since we came into calm water was consumed with gusto. Ingrid arranged to pick us up in the morning, and we spent a final night on board, in some slight discomfort, as “Pepsand” settled with a marked list to port. You win some.....





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Down the East Coast

Day 80
21st July
Early start. At shortly after 06.00 we crept out of Boddam and turned south, benefiting from the southerly tide and strong north wind. The conditions favoured a long passage to Eyemouth, some 95 miles and almost due south. Other harbours were either drying and therefore enterable only at or near high water, or unsuitable for yachts, like Aberdeen, Montrose and Dundee. The rain,which had begun during the night, was steady. Visibility was moderate at best, poor at times. But the wind was strong, f5, even f6 at times, and from behind. Motor sailing on genoa we made good speed, the boat speed hardly dropping below 6kt all day. The coast was soon lost to view, and we saw no other vessels until we were approaching the Firth of Forth. Just after 13.00 we were visited by a pod of common dolphin, which stayed with us for about 5 minutes. The rain had stopped, and the visibility gradually improved until we could see the coast from about Stonehaven to Fife Ness. The brighter weather approached from the north-west, but towards evening the gloom descended and we donned the oilies again. Eyemouth was well signposted by the St. Abbs Head lighthouse, and soon we were entering the brightly lit harbour. The yacht pontoon was fully occupied several times over, and we ended up alongside a Belgian yacht, tying up at 22.45. In under 17 hours we had come 97.5 nautical miles. A good trip.
Cocoa, nightcap and bed.

Day 81
22nd July
During the night the wind had risen, bringing more rain, but we were oblivious. Waking late and rising later, we found our way to the showers, and after a skirmish with the system Paul managed to get a hot shower. I failed, but was consoled by a good shave. We then paid for our stay and went into town. The co-op satisfied our need for groceries, after which we had a coffee and scone in a little café before returning to the boat. The wind had dropped to about f4, so we set out for Lindisfarne. Exiting the harbour was bouncy, but the swell was well spaced and we were soon out in deeper, quieter water. Once out , we set the genoa and switched off the engine, enjoying a fast down-tide reach to Holy Island. A fellow C.O.A. Member had offered us the use of his mooring here. When we rang him he told us that his boat was already on the mooring and that he was coming up later with his daughter. We therefore agreed to meet for an evening meal on Pepsand. As we came in to the harbour the sun came out, giving a pleasant evening after another successful sailing day. The harbour here is very well protected from all wind directions, and we anchored in shallow water, expecting to ground over low water, which duly happened.
The shared meal did not take place. As Paul was about to prepare the food, Steve rang. They had been held up and would not make it. He suggested they came over later for a nightcap. So Paul made a fine chicken korma instead. As it became dark we made out the shadowy shape of a tender being rowed out to us. Steve and daughter arrived and we had a jolly old time over a dram or two before they left us at a very late hour. They were planning to go north to Bass Rock to see the gannets. In the morning they had gone.

Day 82
23rd July
We were firmly aground, as expected. The inflatable took us to the pier steps, where we discovered the water was too shallow even for the dinghy. Paul gallantly took off shoes and socks and pulled the now much more buoyant dinghy the last few metres to the steps. The village is bigger than I had expected and is very attractive. We found the post office, which was closed, but managed to buy postcards nevertheless, using the honesty box. The ruined abbey came next, and then we found our way reluctantly to the dinghy and rowed back to the boat, now afloat and swinging to the anchor. This promised to be a good day. The wind was light, the sea smooth, and there would be much sunshine as a ridge of high pressure established itself over northern Britain. The day went exactly to plan. We motorsailed past the Farne Islands, past the huge Bamburgh Castle, Alnmouth and Coquet Island. En route we passed areas where there were millions of jellyfish. It was a smooth passage to Blyth, where Laura met us at the marina and whisked Paul back to Frosterley. It has been a great fortnight. Thank you, Paul.

After they had gone I ate and then went to the Royal Northumberland Yacht Club. The clubhouse is in an old wooden lightship, last stationed at Calshot Spit. Bought in 1952, it has been incredibly well fitted out. The amenities are first class and the beer is cheap. The cosy bar was full, the atmosphere welcoming. Some visitors from Amble, who were rafted up alongside Pepsand, chatted with me until it was time for bed.


Day 83
24th July
The day began bright if not sunny, with a light southerly breeze. By now the diesel was running low, and as the club does not have a diesel pump I elected to go to Sunderland Marina thirteen miles south, on the way to Hartlepool. I telephoned and there was no problem. The marina was jammed full with boats because of the Sunderland Air Show. Approaching the harbour were motor boats and yachts of all shapes and sizes, anchoring offshore to see the display. Tanks full, and much moulah lighter, I came out and anchored in 8m. It was a good opportunity to have lunch. The show began quietly with helicopters from HMS Westminster which came out of the harbour five minutes before me. The Hawker Hunter was the star of the show for me, perhaps because of boyhood memories, Neville Duke, etc. By 14.30 the wind had increased and began to set up a chop. Time to leave. Hartlepool lay another fifteen miles south through a nasty wind-over-tide sea, but visibility remained excellent. Off South Shields it had been possible to see the Cheviots and the North Yorkshire Moors at the same time. As we came into Hartlepool Bay the wind abruptly veered to the south-west and the air was suddenly warm and smelling of land. As I came into the lock the gate shut behind me and in no time five motorboats and Pepsand were decanted into the enormous dock which forms Hartlepool Marina. Tying up at almost 18.00 I made a beeline for the office and showers. Feeling much better for being clean and shaved, I had a stroll round the waterfront. The bars and eateries were crowded. It was Saturday night after all. Much drinking, much shouting and much loud music. Not my scene. So back to Pepsand and supper.

Day 84
25th July
Waking early, I got up and made porridge for a change. The VHF traffic indicated that the lock was in action, so I joined the party. At sea by 07.00! The wind was very light, but Whitby is only 25 or so miles away, and we had all day to get there. High Water would be at 16.56 and you can enter and leave about four hours either side of high water. Once past the Teesport VTS area, the engine was switched off. The very light wind called for the cruising chute, and once deployed, it gave nearly three knots. By 14.00 the wind had died altogether, so the last few miles were covered under power and we came into a very busy and crowded Whitby to find that the bridge, long the bugbear of yachtsmen, was stuck, but thankfully in the open position. This simplifies access for the boating fraternity, but is causing problems for the traffic, and trade, I would imagine. A brand new amenities block has just opened, and provided an enjoyable shower. Reaching the Co-op just before closing time I collected milk, etc. and then went in search of fish and chips. Then back to Pepsand for a quiet evening. The laptop refuses to access the internet, and I don't know how to fix it. The next planned stop is Scarborough. Perhaps I can take it to a computer place there.

Day 85
26th July
Porridge again! I'm developing a taste for it. The tide will let me leave after 12.30, so there is plenty of time to try out the new laundry facility here. State-of-the-art washing machine and tumble dryer. All worked very well, and for £5 all my clothes are clean and dry. Early lunch and leave at 12.35. Very calm with virtually no wind. Nothing eventful to report. Scarborough harbour staff very helpful and friendly. Tied up at 16.30. Had shower, had tea, and lo and behold, the computer works the internet here. Perhaps it was the set-up at Hartlepool that was wrong. The weather is definitely more favourable, and although it rained briefly in the early evening, the winds seem set to help rather than hinder for the next few days.

The Moray Firth

Day 77
18th July
A windy morning. As the car did not have to be back until 09.00 we were able to transport Birgit and Mogens to the station before taking it back. They were taking the train to Edinburgh before flying back to Denmark on Monday. When we got back to the marina Paul and I had a restful morning. The tide times meant we could not exit the canal until about 14.00. The lock gates are so heavy they have to have flotation chambers to take some of the weight. This necessitates a certain rise of tide, and the gates remain closed for two hours either side of low water. So after an early lunch we left the marina and moved down the lagoon to the sea lock and rail bridge. As soon as the water outside was high enough, and after a train had gone through, we left the canal and were back in the salt water. The weather was still windy. A force 5 southwester with occasional gusts was whipping up the sea horses, but the wave height was low. We motorsailed on genoa until we had passed the narrows under the suspension bridge at Kessock, and then sailed on genoa down the shallow Beauly Firth. Conditions made steering difficult, so we reefed the genoa down and used the motor. Once through the narrows by Fortrose the sea calmed as we entered deeper water. The wind dropped as forecast, giving a smooth ride. Passing inside the Riff Bank we were soon past Fort George and began the long haul past Nairn, the Culbain Forest, Findhorn and Kinloss to Burghead. Spectacular lenticular clouds filled the sky, and I could imagine the excitement at the gliding clubs. The sun came out, and as the wind gradually dropped it became warmer. The sea was by now quite flat, and we rolled away the genoa and motored to Lossiemouth in the calm, arriving at 21.15. As we passed Burghead Paul went below and got busy in the galley, creating a very tasty and filling Chilli con Carne containing red peppers, mushrooms, celery, onions. By 22.30 we were asleep in the very sheltered little east basin at Lossiemouth.





Day 78
19th July
In the morning, after a shower and breakfast we walked round to the harbour office to be greeted by the man himself. We asked about gas, and were directed to the filling station round the corner, where we obtained a new bottle. We left at 10.30 and were able to motorsail through the rain (after an hour) to Whitehills. The harbourmaster, Bertie Milne, was listening on Channel 14 and met us at the entrance, directing us to an empty berth. When he heard that I was raising money for the R.N.L.I., he was extremely generous. This marina is tight, with only 32 berths in the tiny harbour, but it can be entered at any state of the tide, and affords perfect shelter. The facilities are first class, and we especially liked the crew room with its exchange library and comfy sofa: an ideal place to wait for the washing machine and dryer to complete their cycles. This would have been an ideal marina for a longer stopover, but time is not on our side now. The village is compact, but has a hotel, a bar, post office, general store , chippie and wet fish shop. Here we bought smoked haddock and two portions of Cullen Skink, a kind of fish soup. After a meal of stuffed lap of mutton we walked down to the “Cutty” for a pint of McEwans'. Then to bed.


Day 79
20th July
An early start, necessitated by the tide. The currents here are not strong, but it still helps. We were able to motorsail to Fraserburgh with a groundspeed of over 6kt in very calm conditions and bright sunshine. Then, once we had rounded the north-eastern tip of Aberdeenshire the tide turned and held us to 4kt groundspeed. Even so, we completed the trip to Peterhead in 7hrs. On the way we saw porpoises twice and one dolphin. Very close to Peterhead Harbour is the little harbour of Boddam. Here we tied up at the quayside at low water. The entrance to Boddam could be awkward in strong weather as it is narrow and surrounded by skerries and reefs, but there is plenty of water, and the harbour is very sheltered. On the way in we saw two seals sunning themselves on the rocks. Boddam seems to be a dormitory suburb of Peterhead. A few small fishing boats use the harbour. At the south end of the village is a lighthouse on an island with a fine modern bridge linking it to the land. Tonight Paul prepared a smoked haddock crumble. It did not linger on the plate.








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The Caledonian Canal

Day 71
12th July

A most interesting dream was shattered at 08.00 by a shout and knock from without. The friendly lock-keeper wished to know what our plans were. He said we could enter the sea lock presently. We went through at 09.00 and tied up in the first basin where I was able to pay for the licence. We were advised to join two other yachts in the first canal lock immediately, and go through Neptune's Staircase, a chain of seven locks, since the next chance would be in over four hours' time. So we did. By the time we were through all seven locks we felt happy with the system. At the top is the canal station of Banavie, where we happily filled up with water, tying up alongside the shower block. After a cold lunch Paul and I resealed a stanchion base to put paid to a small leak where rain had been penetrating the forepeak locker, then we pumped up two new fenders that I had snapped up half-price at Oban, and we all enjoyed the splendid showers: ample hot water, simple controls, and free to all canal users. By now the day was warmer than we had yet had in Scotland, with little showers. We just chilled out. No time pressure to get to Inverness.
Day 72
13th July
No rain, no wind! We made an early start and had breakfasted by 08.30. Then Birgit and Mogens walked back to Corpach along the road to do a little shopping whilst Paul and I lifted the floorboards and cleaned the bilge. Whilst Paul was busy inside I washed down the decks and cockpit and spliced some better rope onto a couple of fenders. We finished and had just settled down to a cup of coffee when the wanderers returned with almost everything on our wish list. It was about 11.00 when we set off up the canal, passing through the locks at Gairlochy, where we tied up for lunch. Some two hours later we entered Loch Lochy and were amazed to see the depth sounder go right down past 100m. The weather was sultry with a gentle breeze from the north-east, but the loch produced no waves at all and at 1200rpm we managed 4kt. The mountains here come right down to the water's edge. Ben Nevis, with its patches of snow, receded. Surprisingly few boats came the other way, and at about 15.45 we tied up on the waiting pontoon outside Laggan Locks. This is a double lock, but the first seems to be permanently open. We had a cup of tea whilst waiting for the southbound flotilla to exit, and then we went in. The lift was only two metres this time and soon we came out and tied up on the pontoon at 16.15. The weather looks as if it will rain before long. On the opposite bank is a converted barge which is a pub. No doubt we will investigate before long.
And we did, but not before Paul served up a superb meal of pasta with a tomato based sauce and added tuna. The pub merited our attention. Down below in the barge was the cosiest of bars, very tastefully fitted out, and serving excellent Orcadian ales amongst other good things. We hit the sack at about 23.00. Before tea we had wound the boat so that it faced north. During the night the wind did indeed turn northerly. The inevitable rain therefore did not drive in.

Day 73
14th July
We woke to the familiar sound of pouring rain. After a late breakfast we decided to push on. Paul and I braved the elements whilst Birgit and Mogens stayed dry and plied us with coffee. There was not far to go to Fort Augustus. The nine-mile trip involved two swing bridges, one at each end of Loch Oich, which were expertly opened at exactly the right time for us, and locks at Cullochy and Kytra. As Loch Oich is the high point of the canal, we were now coming down in the locks, which is a much gentler experience than going up, since the swirling water is escaping away from, and not into the confines of the lock. As we approached Fort Augustus and its five locks we decided to moor up above the locks and to descend them tomorrow. By now Paul and I were somewhat chilled, and hot mushroom soup did us well for lunch. We both donned vests, however. In the afternoon Birgit and Mogens went out and walked into town whilst I updated the log and blog, and Paul slept. After another fine meal by Paul, he and I went into the Lock Inn and chilled out over a pint of local ale. Then to bed.

Day 74
15th July
Raining again!! We refused the offer of locking through at 08.30 and settled for “about ten o'clock”. Birgit and Mogens went for supplies whilst Paul and I washed up and did little tasks. The weather forecast was dispiriting. There is an apparently endless string of depressions lining up to pass over Scotland. Finally at nearly eleven we entered the chain of five locks and went down to the swing bridge, There were spectators, mainly foreign tourists. By 12.00 we were through and into Loch Ness, apparently the only vessel for miles. The light rain continued until about 14.00. Paul knocked up a very tasty salmon salad which we consumed whilst under way. The wind from the south-west began to pick up and soon we had the engine off and sailed on the genoa. Urquart Castle looked interesting but covered in tourists, since the pleasure boats stopped there. As we passed we heard a piper strike up: another reason to continue sailing. Shortly after 17.00 we came to the lock and bridge at Dochgarroch. Here we had to wait for another yacht to catch up, but soon we came through and, passing the dreary-looking Caley Marina we tied up before the bridge at Tomnahurich.
By now the sun was out, so towels were hung out to dry. Paul prepared a fine dinner of Spanish omelette and I made a bread and butter pudding. Great stuff!

Day 75
16th July
There were no facilities at Tomnahurich Bridge, so we were pleased to go through to the locks and Seaport Marina. A delightful young lady came out of her warm dry office into the monsoon to unlock the electric point for us. Eventually the rain stopped and we got up courage to walk down to Inverness, about half a mile away. Here we enjoyed the covered market, a kind of Victorian arcade, and had coffee before finding the tourist information office. They were well organised and before long we were able to book a car for the next day. The weather slowly improved,a and on the way back to the boat we stopped at a pub on the west bank of the River Ness and noted the menu.
Paul prepared a meal of chicken breasts in white wine. We looked forward to a Highland tour.

Day 76
17th July
No rain! After breakfast I walked down to the car hire office and brought back the car, a Vauxhall Vectra. In unaccustomed sunshine we drove east past the airport to Nairn and were able to look out across the Moray Firth towards the Black Isle. The marina at Nairn is sheltered , but only accessible around high water, so we decided against coming there. Our next stop was at Grantown on Spey, a fine market town, not unlike Moreton in the Marsh, with a long straight, wide main street and parking in parallel behind green islands. Here we found a super little bakery cum coffee shop and stopped a while. Mogens enjoyed a Scots Pie whilst we had scones.
Aiming for Aviemore we came to Boat of Garten, which was hosting a steam rally at the Speyside railway station. Here we saw signs for the RSPB Osprey centre at Loch Garten. This was a must. We were in luck. At the viewing centre we were able to see an adult bird sitting a few metres from the nest, in which were three fledglings. The CCTV was superb. Eventually we tore ourselves away and returned to the pub by the station for a sandwich lunch of some quality.
Aviemore is crowded, full of mountaineering and ski schools and shops. We did not stop, but drove up the mountain road to the funicular railway. This took us to the top of the ski slopes. There is a shop, restaurant, exhibition and viewing gallery. The exhibition is excellent. Outside at over 1100m it was icy cold and blowing a gale, so we fled to the restaurant and had a cup of tea whilst enjoying the panorama. It was even possible to see the Moray Firth to the north.
Returning to the car we drove down the mountain and then north-west over a pass into Strathnairn and eventually to the end of Loch Ness at Dores, then back to the pub in Inverness, The Waterfront, for a fine meal, before returning to Pepsand.

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The Scottish Monsoon

Day 62
Saturday 3rd July
A day of some achievement. The excellent chandlery provided the right gear oil and it did not take long to drain out the old and refill the gearbox with the new. A box was found, more or less suitable for housing the chart plotter when brought inside. Steve had warned me of the possibility of excessive wear on the multi-pin plug from my constantly connecting and disconnecting it. So now it can be permanently connected. For good measure I varnished the box before screwing it to the bulkhead directly above the sink. There was an exchange library in the laundry where I found, hiding amongst sundry bodice-rippers and sci-fi works, Samuel Butler's “The Way of all Flesh”, which I settled down to read, whilst the wind howled and the boat rocked and creaked. The creaking, alarming in its way, comes from the mooring lines as they come under tension.
Roy came over for a chat as I was taking fuses out of an old switch panel. He is a professional classical musician. He knows Hull, since his father was for a time organist of Holy Trinity and music teacher at one of the grammar schools, Kingston High School. When he mentioned being a chorister at King's, Cambridge, I asked him if he had met my friend from school, Michael Boswell, who had taken a choral scholarship there at the same time as I did the same at Magdalen. He had. When his voice broke he came back to Hull and spent some years at Hull GS. So we reminisced about the East Riding Youth Orchestra and Choir. His mother still lives in Swanland, just to the west of Hull. Another interesting coincidence.
The weather will not let up. Tomorrow's forecast is dire, promising more gale-force wind and rain.
Day 63
Sunday 4th July
They were right. After a stormy night the loch is blanketed in grey fog. The wind has dropped from force 8 to force 5 with occasional nasty gusts. Patience is a great virtue, and it is needed now. Fortunately there is no time pressure on me to get to Oban, but the exploration of this lovely coast is being severely curtailed. The five-day forecast shows a possible window of opportunity to go north on Monday, but early, before the next trough comes through. Ardfern being a BT Openzone hotspot, one can escape boredom by surfing the net, and there is a serious book to read. After lunch came a tidy up and out came the Pledge. The saloon looks a lot more cared-for now. After tea Roy came along, and we went to the pub. As we chatted over a pint of “Tickety-boo” (whoever thought up that one?!) in came our French friends, and the pace of conversation slowed as the language changed. Another pint, and then back to the French yacht for a nightcap (Bowmore single malt). Hit the hay at gone 11pm. The wind is dropping.
Day 64
Monday 5th
Woke to a silent boat. The wind was now a gentle breeze. Was the opportunity there to get round the corner to Craobh Haven? At the mouth of Loch Craignish is a well-known tidal gate, Dorus Mor, where there can be severe overfalls, especially at spring tides. I reasoned that the force 3 south-westerly would not work up a bad wind-over-tide rough water, and if it did, I could spot it before committing myself, and come back to Ardfern. So we left at 07.40 and motored down the loch into the wind, which rose to force 4 at times, but the water was flat. At Dorus Mor the white water could be seen from well off, but it was nothing like as bad as the chop one gets in the West Swin in a strong southwester, and with the tide pushing one through, it would only last a few minutes, unlike in the Thames Estuary, where you may have to endure it for hours. So, adding a few revs, we turned into the channel. A motor cruiser came the other way and showed no deviation from course, and no great splashing. The tide took hold and whisked us through at 8kt groundspeed. A heavy shower proved to be more of an inconvenience than the overfalls. The deck remained dry. Once past the islets of Reisa an t-Struith and Coiresa and clear of Dearg Sgeir Rock, course was set for Craobh Haven. Engine off. Reaching at 5kt on the genoa we soon arrived at the marina and tied up at 10.15.
This is a thoroughly modern marina created by building breakwaters between several little islands and reefs, very much like the harbour at Verdens Ende in Norway. The facilities are state-of-the-art. I wasted no time in getting showered and shaved. Contrary to information received, there appears to be no Wifi cover here. Tomorrow's forecast is very bad, so I shall be here for at least two nights. Spent the afternoon reading and sorting kit. The boat is quite presentable now, and I think I know where everything is.
Someone who clearly has no real interest in food, nor in my welfare, has suggested that this blog contains too many references to what I am eating. In my defence I can only say that all my life I have had a healthy interest in food as can be observed in my far from spindly frame. Those who find the culinary references not to their taste may skip over them in favour of whatever philosophy they may prefer.
Tonight it was black pudding from Islay with bacon and eggs, washed down with a mug of Yorkshire tea. So there.
Day 65
Tuesday 6th July
The weather is as bad as forecast. This morning was devoted to washing in the marina laundry, which is well organised and modern, though the dryers are rather expensive. Now all my kit is clean, if not quite dry. I have rigged up a drying line inside the saloon, since the Scottish Monsoon prevents any outside drying. The wind is southerly, about force 5, with heavy gusts from time to time. There has been very little movement here today. The little shop in the so-called village is not very well stocked and had no washing powder, so I used a tube of hand-wash gel, and it seemed to work.
The marina here was created from a rocky shore with some islands by an entrepreneurial group some years ago. There is now a well equipped marina with chandlery, workshop and sailmaker, a pub/restaurant, a shop, tea room and about thirty little terraced houses, built when, or since the marina was created. Shelter is very good, and the depth allows access at all times. The place is about 40 minutes by road from Oban. As might be expected, most of the houses are holiday lets or second, even third homes. Local young people cannot afford them. So in weather like this the place is deserted and dreary. What makes this place is its location right in the middle of possibly the best cruising area in Britain.
After a light lunch, the details of which I shall omit out of consideration for others, I did little jobs round the boat and sewed on yet another button. Tonight I plan to visit the “Lord of the Isles” pub and eat. I need cheering up. Tomorrow's forecast is not nice. In the shop I picked up a book about an American who sailed back to the USA in a leaky wooden boat. We have got as far as the Azores.

The rain came on very hard as I was thinking of going to eat, so I stayed in and cooked sausages with potatoes and broccoli. Later it stopped for a while, so I went over, and found they had Wifi, so the blog got updated and e-mails sent. The “Lord of the Isles” is pleasant, open plan, and the TV, whilst showing the dreaded World Cup, was muted. About twenty-five people were in the bar.
Finished the book. The boat sank!!

Day 66
Wednesday 7th July
The gale drags on. The marina is so sheltered there are no waves, but the wind can still rock the yachts, which it did, all night. This morning, taking advantage of a dry spell, I exchanged a gas bottle when when going to the wash-room, and then went to the shop for food items and the paper, obtaining a Jack London paperback at the same time. Soon after I came back to the boat the rain resumed, even heavier, and the wind increased. Probably the cold front coming through. Tomorrow's forecast is not much better. Now it's becoming critical, but as Oban is only 20nm away I can do it in four hours, and could leave here as late as lunchtime Friday and still be well in time to meet Birgit and Mogens from the train. I'm beginning to understand why the Scots drink so much whiskey! After lunch I filed and sanded down the top corner of the perspex sheet that replaces the top washboard in bad weather. It has been in constant use since leaving Ireland and it did not quite fit. This was of little importance until Craobh, where they gave me a berth facing north-east, so that the strong south-west wind began driving the rain in. Not any more. Later in the day a cold front came through and it cleared enough for me to leave at 17.00. Motoring down Loch Shuna the sea remained quite flat, and at the tip of Luing the heavens opened yet again. Pepsand is one clean boat!! Progress downwind northwards up the Sound of Luing was rapid, and even some tidal eddies helped. In the narrows where the depth decreases significantly the adverse tide increased to about three knots, but not for long, and soon we were making very good headway. At this point, past the lighthouse on Fladda, the shelter from the islands was gone, and a sizeable swell came in. The boat surfed down the waves at top speed, registering a groundspeed of nearly 8kt. Very soon we entered the sound of Kerrera and by 21.00 were tied up alongside a training ship belonging to the Sea Cadets. 24nm in 4hrs dead. In the night it blew over 40kt, but I am used to the noises now, and slept nonetheless.
Day 67
Thursday 8th July
After breakfast took the free ferry to Oban and wandered around, enjoying the walk and the fact that it was not quite raining. Had lunch of fish and chips and returned to Pepsand to finally sort things for my guests. The Frenchmen who had been at Ardfern were now at the marina, and they invited me to lunch tomorrow, Friday. The skipper and owner of the boat (Ovni 36, aluminium hull) is a travel agent, and spends three months every year sailing, mostly to the north of France.
Back on Pepsand I read and prepared for what I hope will be Sunday's cruise to Corpach, at the start of the Caledonian Canal, some 25nm north from here. In the evening the French and I went to the little bar at the marina (in a tent, and not very warm) before retiring to Pepsand for a nightcap. The wind has now dropped completely. Silent boat, and a good night's sleep.
Day 68
Friday 9th July
Spent a quiet, rainy morning doing little preparations. Moved the boat from the fuel pontoon to a permanent berth, but not before filling up with diesel. Soon it was time to visit the French. The lunch was splendid: smoked salmon on a bed of salad with chopped tomatoes, then cassoulet (pork and beans). It was all delicious. My main aim now is to stay awake to catch the ferry to Oban to meet Birgit and Mogens.
I did, their train came in on time, and they are now esconced on Pepsand. They brought better weather. During lunch we noted the passing of the cold front. The wind went right round to the west, and a series of little squalls heralded a great brightening of the sky. By the time I took the ferry to Oban it had stopped raining and blue sky could be seen. There was some time to kill when they arrived, so we went into the Caledonian Hotel and took tea in a little room overlooking the bay. They had been travelling since 5a.m.. The ferry back was very full. We stopped in the moorings for a party to transfer to a large yacht. They transferred an impressive amount of food. Once on board I busied myself preparing them a meal, whilst Birgit unpacked. They will use the forecabin in the bows. Paul and I will sleep in the saloon. After tea they went down for a snooze whilst I downloaded the Skipper's Guide to the Caledonian Canal and had a read. Birgit and Mogens plan to fly back from Inverness in ten days' time, so no transfer problems, and we may be able to explore Mull after all before making for Fort William and the canal.
Day 69
Saturday 10th July
A quiet day with little wind. We spent a quiet morning on the boat. After lunch we took the ferry to Oban and had a big food shop at Tesco. Then Birgit and Mogens went looking for a camera shop to buy film whilst I waited for Paul at the station. The train was on time, but the fresh fish shop was not open, so we went back to Tesco for something for tea. We met up at the ferry and decided to eat at the bistro by the marina. The meal was excellent, we were treated by Paul. Well done, Bro!
A convivial evening on board followed, and we were late to bed. Still blowing a gale and raining, but we slept well, helped by a tot of Salvador. Thanks, Laura.
Day 70
Sunday 11th July
Woke to more howling in the rigging. The rain and wind are relentless. Clearly we are not going to Tobermory in a hurry. Breakfast over, we chatted and played dominoes, drank coffee and found ways to charge up mobiles from the 12v system, with complete success. Later we listened to a tape of the King's Singers. Not long after that finished there was a knock, and the French connection was re-established. Jean-Marc and Pierre-Luc were back. Yesterday they had left for Tobermory, but when the wind gusted over 40kt they decided to seek shelter at Dunstaffnage Marina, about five miles north of Oban. Now they had just arrived back here.
After lunch Paul, Mogens and I went to Tesco for a final shop before possibly leaving if the weather lets us. The time between the sailings just sufficed for our purpose. By the time we were back on Pepsand the sun was out and the wind had dropped considerably. By four we had paid for the berth and left. Water had been getting low, but at Oban Marina there is no mains water. They are dependent on spring water and collected rainwater. This year been exceptionally dry in Scotland, and they could not supply us. So with very little in the tanks we set off for Corpach and the canal.
Once we were clear of the fairway we set sail with one reef in the main and did well at first, but gradually the wind dropped so that we shook out the reef, but by the time we reached the Island of Shona we had to use the engine. Then tide, except for the Curran Narrows, was very slight, and there was virtually no sea, so Paul gallantly went down and prepared a splendid meal of baked fish with several vegetables. As we approached Fort William we could see the lower slopes of Ben Nevis, and even a stubborn patch of snow clinging to a steep cliff. The light was still good as we tied up to the waiting pontoon at 22.00. Straight to bed. We were all tired, especially Birgit, who went to bed long before we arrived. A noisy trawler disturbed the peace at midnight, but after that we enjoyed a most tranquil night.

http://www.rnli.org.co.uk/

North up the Sound of Jura

Day 61
Friday 2nd July
The weather forecast is improved for today. Southerly F4/5, occ 6. We can live with that as we wish to go north. The people in a Colvic Atlanta next door but one are doing the same, so we'll go together. Islay has been very good. It casts a spell. Perhaps because the people are so relaxed and welcoming.
We left at 11.00 and motorsailed out inside the Island Texa and past the three great distilleries of Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg. There was very little tide and the sea was not rough. We kept station past the Sound of Islay and the Small Isles but at the lighthouse on Skervuile I decided to pass to starboard as the water was deeper and I felt the tide would be more helpful. It worked, and Pepsand left the larger boat somewhat behind. Heading for Ardfern Yacht Centre, my track diverged from theirs, and we radioed our goodbyes as they kept to the western side of the Sound of Jura whilst I slanted across to the eastern, deeper side. It certainly gave me better water, and they were gradually left behind. By 15.00 the tide was helping us to maintain well over 7kt groundspeed. The wind was not as strong as forecast, being mainly f4 with occasional f5. Alright by me. A front was clearly overtaking us, and at about 16.00 I donned wet weather gear and prepared for rain. This did not happen until we were in Loch Craignish and approaching Ardfern, and it lasted only a few minutes. Passing Crinan we saw several yachts coming and going. At Ardfern the staff had knocked off by the time we arrived at 18.30. Once tied up, a meal of roast pork, etc. was prepared and consumed . As I was washing up, Roy arrived. He was on the opposite pontoon at Port Ellen. As I took his lines he said the Frenchmen who were next to me there were also on their way. They arrived about half an hour later. After a shower and shave I was delighted to find that Ardfern is a BT Wifi hotspot, so e-mails and blogging are possible. The forecast for the next few days is not too good. I am pleased to be within easy striking distance of Oban.

http://www.rnli.org.uk/